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FOR 



Women's and Misses' 



UNDERWEAR 



consisting of 

Corset Covers, Camisoles, Brassiers, 

Envelope Chemise, Nightgowns, 

Drawers, Bloomers, Combinations, 

Pajamas, Princess Slips 

and Petticoats 
According to the most up=to=date method. 




Specially designed for self»instruction and Copyrighted by 
Prof. 1. ROSENFELD. 

Entered in the Library of Congress, Washington, D. C. 1918. 
Published by 

THE LEADING PATTERN CO. 



rC* 



790 



<^V 




TPIE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 




PR0I5LEM OF UNDERWEAR. 



In order to control tlie practical details in all kinds of women's and misses' under- 
garments, it will be necessary to systemize the modern way of controlling every pro- 
portional branch of the body- Let it, therefore, be understood that the hrt of pattern 
making: for the underwear line depends gieatly on the proportional measurements which 
are a necessity ior perfect fitting- and comfortable wealing garments. 

Therefore, note that diagram number 1 on the opposite page which illustrates that 
the total height of the body is divided into 8 divisions w hereby is illustrated systematic- 
ally the proper way of clothing the body, as follows: "< of the total height of the body 
covers the head space; 2—8 the natural waist length in back from the socket bone to the 
hollow of waist ,and '?» covers the space from the hollow cf waist to the ground which is 
the lull length lor such gamicnts as petticoats, drawers, pajamas and nightgowns. 

SEE FIGURE NUMBER 2 FOR WIDTH PROPORTIONS. 

The breast measurement is taken all around the body at number 2. The bust 
measmement is taken all aiound the body at number ". The waist measurement is taken 
all around the body at number 4. The hip measurement is taken all around the body at 
number 5, which is 6 inches below the waist line. If measurements for drawers are want- 
ed take knee measui'ement at numljer 6; calf measurement at number 7 and ankle 
measurement at numbei' 8. 



In order to specify the proper guide for the length of spaces, we follow the standard 
height proportion, which is for size 36, .5 feet G inches amounting to 66 inches. The first 
step taken in obtaining the proportional measurements in length is as follows: Viof the 
total height and 1 inch less makes the natural waist length in back. To make this clear, 
take Vi of f> feet 6 inches or 66 inches which amounts to IG'i inches and 1 inch less leav- 
ing 15'-' inches foi- the natural waist length in back. For the balance of height which is 
from the waist to the ground according to the total height division we find % of the total 
height which is .5 times S'j inches which makes 41 U inches. To make the pi'oper place 
of rise or hip line which is from the waist to the ci'utch we find the space of 12 inches 
which is explained in the following pages. Therefore, deduct 12 inches from 41 '4 inches 
leaving 29 '4 inches for inside length. To obtain the proper place of knee, calf and ankle 
according to this height take half of 29'4 inches and 2 inches less which amounts to 12^8 
inches. In order to designate the space for calf the space should be 6 inches below the 
knee line as illustrated according to diagram numbei' 2 illustrating width proportions. See 
complete tablei of proportions in the following nages. ,^ ^ <C>Cr ^^O > 



/;r- 



V 



i>.' 



^ 



)CI.A4!r<!Hr,ii 
APR -6 1918 



^^^ 



791 




I. ROSENFELD'S SYSTEM 




4. 




a 



a 



\j' 




792 




THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 





THE PROPER WAY OF TAKING RISE MEASUREMENT- 

Jn order to make clear how to obtain the rise measui-ement for women's or misses' 
underwear watch the above diagram which gives the position how such measurement 
can be taken. Have a pioportional live model seated on a flat surface on a chair or 
tsible in an upright position and take the measurement from the hollow of waist which 
is illustrated on the above diagram at number 1 and take the measurement down to the 
flat surface of the chair or table which is illustrated by number 2. According to this in- 
struction we obtain 12 inches for vi^-e measurement for a poi-son of normal 
height and medium hip measurement, such as 5 feet 6 inches. At the same time, it is 
necessary to know that this normal rise measurement will be only piactical for close- 
fitting garments. Should we want to build garments for more comfoi'table wear, in such 
case, there should be an additional allowance of 6 inches to these 12 inches and we 
shall use 18 inches for a full length rise measurement. 

In order to obtain the additional measurements which may be used in connection 
with the rise measurement continue with the outside length by taking a straight outside 
length from the hollow of waist down straight to the knee which will give for the average 
length 26 inches for a person of normal height. See table of pi-opoi-tions on the next 
page. , 



793 




I. ROSENFELD'S SYSTEM 




Proportional Measurements 



FOR 



Women's and Misses' 
UNDERWEAR 



STANDAKD PROPORTIONAL MEASUREMENTS FOR WOMEN'S SIZES 



Size 


Bust 


Waist 


Hip 


BacIc 
Depth 


Waist Sleeve 
Length Length 


Collar 


Width 
ol Back 


Outside 

Length Rise 


34 


37 


24 


42 


6J8 


15H \7H 


13K 


7 


41 11', 


36 


39 


25 


43 


7 


15H 18 


14 


7X 


41X 12 


38 


41 


26 


44 
45 


7M 


15H 18X 


WA 


7K 


•• >i 


40 


43 


27 


7K 


15K 18>2' 


15 


7H 


>» II 


42 


45 


28J/2 


46 


7H 


15K 18f^ 


15 ^^ 


8 


II *i 


44 


46 


30 


47 


71 2 


16 19 


16 


8K 


'» )> 


STANDARD PROPORTIONAl 


;. MEASIREMENTS FOR MISSES' S17ES 


Size 


Breast 


Bust 


W.ist 


Back 
Hip Deplf 


Waist Sleeve 
1 Length Length 


Width 
ol Back 


Collar 


Outside 

Length Rise 


14 


32 


35 


22 


39 6H 


14', 171^ 


6' 4 


12K 


40 IVA 


16 


34 


37 


23 


40 6:^4 


15 17K 


7 


13 


40K UK 


18 


36 


39 


24 


41 7 


15K 18 


7 '4^ 


13H 


M M 



NOTE these are Standard Measurements. Stylish Measurements are published yearly 
which are given by the Author to book owners free of charge. 



794 




THE PRACTICAL DESIGNEI 




WOMAN'S FIRST FOUNDATION LINES. 



LESSON NO. 400 



I shall now commence to explain the drafting of a foundation foi- a woman's size 36 
and to succeed in dral'ting, the student has to remember every step which is made at the 
beginning, as the beginning lines according to this system are always to be repeated I'or 
each and every garment. It shall therefore be understood that this system is based on 
the most simplified method because the very first foundation lines are to be used for all 
the continuous lessons. The foundation lines shown in the first lesson are covering the 
space of the body from the neck down to the natural waist length and it therefore con- 
sists of 3 lines, which are called top line, breast line and waist line and to begin use the 
following standard measurements for size 36. 



Back depth 7 

Natural waist length in back IS'- 

All around chest or size 36 

All around bust 39 

All around waist 25 



inches 
inches 
inches 
inches 
inches 



Now begin to draft, draw a square lin« from A to R and A to C and remember that 
the line from A to R is the ton line and from A to C is the center back line to which you 
have to stand next in order to have the draft in front of you in the proper manner. Now 
measure from A to B, 7 inches back depth and from A to C, 15 '2 inches natural waist 
length. Draw a line across from B to W and C to X. After these lines are crossed, 
measure fiom A to D, B to E and C to F, 1—3 of size or 12 inches for size 36 and draw 
a line from D, li to F. 

To produce the widlh of back, take half of B to E. which makes G and allow fiom (J 
to H, 1 '1 inches and then measure the space between B to H and place the same from A 
to I and draw ,a line from I to H. Now begin the back neck ; from A to J measure Vu 
of size 01- 3 inches for size 36 and from J to K raise up 1 inch and from K draw a line 
out against I to L. 

In producing the back shoiilciei', dn.w a line from K against I to L. This space 
shall be 6 inches for size 36 Itut in order that this space or width of shouidav shall come 
out naturally without memorizin:.! the width of shoulder for each and every size, a 
square ruler shall be applied to the line from K to L to meet H and it will prove or bring 
the original width of shoulder for every size systematically. 

Now make the ink line for the center back; make from C to M, 2 inches and draw 
a line from M up to A and remember that this space between C to M is always 2 inches 
for all women's! sizes. Before going any further, remember the name of each cross line 
made at A, B and C. The line from A to R is called the top line, the line from B to W 
is the breast line and the line from C to X is the waist line.-' If thei-e are any other 
crossed lines to be produced foi- the continuous lessons, each additional line will have 
the proper name of its practical use. This completes this lesson. 

Take notice that this foundation and all further lessons produced on this founda- 
tion, have all necesaary seams allowed. 



795 




I. ROSENFELD'S SYSTEM 





796 




THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 




WOMAN'S SECOND FOUNDATION LINES 



LESSON NO. 101. 



To begin this lesson, we need to remember the entire foundation of the first lesson, 
therefore now prepare the entire first lesson and continue as follows: From E to N and 
from D to is 1—6 of size or 3 inches for size 36 and draw a line up from N to 0. When 
making this step, it shall be remembei-ed tl^at we are pi-eparing the outline for the front 
part. Now measure again from to P and from P to Q also 1—6 of size or 3 inches for 
size 36. It shall be understood that we need to draw a line up fi-om P to Q and as soon 
as the line is drawn up to Q, draw a line from Q to the ink line at the back depth, 
which makes T and when this line is complete, measure the width of back shoulder 
from K to L and place the sjame fi'om Q to U, which makes the front shoulder and then 
draw a line from U to N, which makes the front amihole. 

Now prepare the front neck, measure from P to R. 1—6 of size or, 3 inches and 
allow a '■! inch for seam. Then raise up a line of 'a of an inch to S for the high neck 
in front. 

Now measure the bust; measure from T to V half of bust measurement. For in- 
stance, this bust measurement amounts to 39 inches therefore, take half of this 
amount, 19 '2 inchesi from T to V and from V to W allow 3 inches foi- stems and draw a 
square line dowrt from W to X and Y. When this line is complete, finish the entire 
edge of the front by drawing a straight line from S against W down to Z. 



When being this far advanced with this foundation, it shall be understood that we 
ai-e about ready with this foundation; which will be completed in the next lesson for use. 
The next lesson will finish this foundation into a corset covei'. 



797 




T. ROSEISTPBLD'S SYSTEM 

V7 





798 




THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 




WOMAN'S CORSET COVER— SIZE 36 



Lesson No. 402 



In order to complete this lesson iiitu a corset cover draw all fouiidalioii liius ac<-or(Iiii,i; 
lo tlic lirst and second lesson^ and continue as follows: 

To begin divide tiie space e(iually ol the entire annhole between II and X making 4 and 
draw a line down I'roni 4 to 2. Then take uiU from each side of 2. V4 t)f an inch ami from 
each side of 4 which is at the lireast line l > inch to E and 5. and connect 5 to 2 with a cur\ ed 
line which will make the side seam of the back and connect I'" to 2 with a cin^ved line which 
makes the side seam of the front. According t.i this instruction we \\\\\ obtain a full bottom 
for tliis Corset co\er : hut should it be necessary to make a more close titted waist, take out 
at the waist line from each side of 2 to 1 and ,1, 1 inch and connect 1 to 5 and .1 to I-'.. 



Now make the opening for neck by d.-vidini^ at the center back frcnn A to I', makiiii;' 
1.1 which will make the deei)ness of the back according' to half of the back depth makini;' it 
,V J inches deep. Then take tlie shoulder width from L to 12 which is 2 inches and curse 
from 12 to 1J5. Now measure the same 2 inchc.-s from L' to 11 and divide e(|ually the space at 
the front edfje from S to W makinq; <S. ICxtend from S to 10, 3 inches for fullness and cnr\e 
from 11 towards S out to 10. \ow connect 10 to 7 with a strai8;lu line which makes the 
edjje of the front. I'rom X to Z allow 1 inch and connect a line from 3 towards 7. to 6 and 
curve up from '/. to 7 with a Ij inch, as shown on the diaj^ram. Then allow 1 inch for but- 
ton-stand to the edije of the front from 10 down to 7. Now make all curves as shown on the 
diaii'ram. .\llow at 1 and 3. ' j inch at the bottom of waist. C ur\ e the arndiole at the back 
from I, to .s and at the front irnm I' to ]•'. 

To cut out the corset cover follow the heavy lines of front aiul back. If a \ ery full back- 
is wanted follow the dotted line from l.i to C and then cut on the heavy marks from I.1 
lo 12 to I. and 5 down to 1 and from 1 to M and ('. Ihe front is cut out from U towards 
1'^ down to ,1 and from .1 out to '/. and 7 and then from 11 towards S to 10 and from 10 down 
to 7. If a much lower front openini;- is wanted follow the trace line shown at 9 at the front 
edf^e between S and \\ and curve in the same maimer as the original line at .S with the 
exception that this is about 2 inches below the first opening curve. Note that when this 
])attern is cut out according to these instructions the pattern has seams allowed and is ready 
to be cut from any kind of material. This ])attern has normal seams of .VS of an inch for a 
half seam or ^ of an inch for a full scam. 

To make the ripple for the cf)rset cover watch the diagram below the corset cover on the 
opjiosite i)agc, which illustrates the same. Draw a straight line from 1 to 2 measuring half 
of the w aist measurement which is about 12' I> inches ff)r 25 inches waist. Divide equally 
between 1 and 2 making ,1 and measure from 3 to 4. 3 inches and from 4 to 5 also 3 inches. 
Then cur\e from 2 towards 4 up to 1 and draw a line from 1 to 5 and 2 to 5. Now square 
a line out from 1 to 6 and 2 to 7 and measure from 2 to 7. 3 inches and 1 to 6 also 3 inches 
and make a curve from 7 towards 5 to 6 which will comiilete the ripple in a .vinch width 
w ith all seams allowed. 



799 




T. ROSENFELD'S SYSTEM 





800 




THE PRACTICAL DKSIGIN^ER 




WOMAN'S TIGHT-FITTING CORSET COVER— SIZE 36 



Lesson No, 403 



To make the tight-fitting corset cover make the usual foundation lines and divide the 
arnihule hetwecn 1 auil (i niakini;- X. Draw a line down from \ to 7 which is at the hack 
armholc s])aee. 'i ake out from each side of X. to 5 and 6, ■> j of an inch and from each 
side of 7 to I", and 10. 2 inches. X'ow shorten the waist lentjth from I', to and 10 to 4 
with a ' _. inch all the way out to 8 and D. 

Now make the dart in front 1>y dividin;^- the chest from F to R niakinj^- S. .\llo\v 
from \' to X ■;4 of an inch and draw a line from \l to X down to 14. Then allow from 
\' to Y, 2 inches for a long- ;vaist effect and draw a line from 9 against Y to 14. Take the 
space from R to S and ])lace same amount from 14 to Z and draw a straight line from S 
to Z and divide the s])ace hetwccn S and Z making 1 which makes the height of dart. Now 
take out from Z to 2. 1 inch and from- Z to 3, 2 inches. Measure the space from 1 to 2 
and apply the same length from 1 to 15 and connect 15 to 9 which will complete the 
entire dart and hottom for the tight-fitting corset cover. 

Now finish the U])per prut of the front edge in a tight-fitting effect fr(nn \\' to R 
and di\ide the space hetween W to R which makes 16 for a medium neck opening in 
front. Di\ide ecpially the shoulder of the front anrl take half from () to U making 17. 
Draw a parallel line from 17 to IS and square a line across from 16 to IS which will give 
according to the trace lines shcjwn on the diagram a sr(uarc opening. If a curved effect is 
desired make a curve from 17 to 16 as shown on the front of the diagram. To make the 
opening at the hack divide the shoulders at the hack erpially hetween 1- and M making 
12 and square a line down from 12 to 13. Di\ide equally the hack depth space from A 
to B making 11. ."Square a line from 11 to 13 which will give a square cutrmt at the hack. 
If a round elTect is wanted, curve as shown from 11 to 12. 



For button-stand in front allow 1 inch at the front ed.ge from 16 dov.-n to 14. Other- 
wise, this tight-litting corset cover is complete with all necessary seams allowed. 



801 




T. ROSENFELD'S SYSTEM 

^y7 





802 




THE PRACTICAL DESIGIN^ER 




WOMAN'S BRASSIERE— SIZE 36 



Lesson No. 404 



In order to make the brassiere prepare the usual toundatioii lines and (li\i(le the side 
scams as exjilained for the tiglit-tittin<;- corset coxer. T'reitare the dart in front in the same 
manner and then act as follows: As this garment is to he strictly tight-titting di\i(le the 
bottom of the back from D to 4 making 9 and from 9 to 19 take out a '.i inch. Divide 
equally the back shoulder from L to M making 10 and connect 10 to 19. Connect with a 
trifle curved line 9 lost to the breast line which will, in this manner, produce the dosc- 
t'ltting back for the brassiere. 

To make the front part divide the front shoulder from () to U making 11 and c(»nnect 
11 to 1. which is at the height of dart, with a straight line. In order to get the proper 
close-fitting bust efYect begin to curve on the straight line from about the breast line lost 
to the waist line to 3. 'IMiereforc, it should be understood that the straight line continues 
for the outside part of the front to 2. To better understaiul this it is to begin at 11 passing 
15 down to 2. It should be tmderstood that this lesson is followed according to the lesson 
before this. 

The opening or cut-out around the neck is built on the same ]irinci])le as for the 
lesson before this. Divide the back depth at the center back from .\ to P. making 12; 
draw a line from 12 across to 13 which connects with the iM-cnch seam from l.i up to 10. 
If a round effect is wanted follow the dotted line from 10 to 12. To make the front oi)en- 
ing or cut-out divide the space at the front edge from W to R making 14 and draw a 
line across to 15. For a square opening follow from 15 to 11. Should a round opi'uing 
be wanted follow the dotted line from 11 to 14. 



To allow for button-stand in frf)nt allow 1 inch all the way through the edge of the 
front from 14 to .\X, shown by the dotted lines. To cut out this ])attcrn remember that this 
pattern is cut out on the same princii)le as the corset cover or any other garment with the 
exception that there is jjositively no need for a seam at the center back. 'I'hcrefore. deduct 
3/S of an inch for a seam from 12 to D. Note that the small dart which is between 9 
and 19 lost to the breast line is to be taken out. When the jiattern is cut out we arc 
to allow scams all the way through from 9 and 19 up to 10 and 3/S of an inch is the 
proper amount to allow at each side. Also note that the front dart between 2 and 3 
lost all the way through up to the breast line is to be thrown out and 3/S of an inch 
for seams are to be allowed from 11 all the way down to 2 and 3 at both parts of the pattern 
which are the inner and the outside parts of the front. 



( 



803 




T. rosehstfeIjD's system 

^/7 





804 




THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 




WOMAN'S CAMISOLE— SIZE 36 



Lesson No. 405 



To produce the camisole systematically and practically which may sa\ c a i;rcat deal of 
material and labor make use of the tirst 2 foundations u]) to the bust which is shown on 
the opposite diasjrani from 2 to 22. When the line of the front edge is drawn from 19 
against 22 down to 25 measure the sjjace at the bottom of the front from 24 to 25 and 
extend the same amount at the breast line from 22 to 26 and connect a line from 26 to 
25. Note that the lengthening of waist at the bottom between 23 and 24 is 1 inch. 



To finish the bottom entirely simply connect a straight line from the bottom of the 
center back from 3 against 24 out to 25 and curve up, as shown on the diagram, al)out 
y^ of an inch at 25 to give a trifle roundness at the bottom of the front when the garment 
is connected. Now note the heavy line at the breast line including the bottom, center back 
and center front which clearly shows that in order to make the camisole in one piece, 
all we need is the space between breast and waist line including all the fullness at the center 
back and the special allowance which is made at the front between 22 and 26 lost to 25. 

To complete this one-piece camisole foundation allow 1 inch for button-stand from 26 
down to 25 in the same manner as shown for the brassiere. Should it be necessary to 
attach upper yoke parts which, as a rule, is a style, follow the suggestion given according 
to the trace line for a \' yoke cfifcct. Divide each shoulder at the front and back, for 
instance, the back shoulder di\ide between 11 and 12 making 27 and follow according to 
the dotted line from 27 to 2 and 27 to S. The front shoulder di\ide between 17 and 30 
making 28 and draw a dotted line from 28 to 14 and 28 to 16. .'■Should we want a shoulder 
strip, which may be made of ribbon or lace, follow the shoulder and armhole lines, which 
is about \y2 inches in width which is shown at the back from 12 to 9 which is followed 
parallel according to the trace line down to the breast line. For the front also follow the 
front armhole line according to the same width which is from 30 to 31 parallel down to the 
breast line as illustrated by the dotted lines. 

It should therefore be understood that the proper adding is a matter of taste and style 
and the lower part is the original foundation of the camisole as described before with all 
the necessary seams allowed. 



805 




fi' 



I. ROSENFELD'S SYSTEM 'C^ 




806 




THE PRACTICAL DT^SIGNER 




WOMAN'S CHEMISE— SIZE 36 



Lesson No. 406 



In order to begin the chemise make use of the upiu r fmindntion lines as ex])laincrl 
in the lirst two lessons as far as the hust line which is on the opposite diasjrain linished 
to the front edtic at 9 and square a straight line down from 9 towards 10. 11 and 12 and 
continue as follows: Measure from .3 to 4, fi inches for liip line and cross a line from 4 
to 11. Xow measiu'c ,30 inches from 1 to 5 which i-^ the normal length for a chemise 
,-uk1 draw a line across from .S to 12. 



Now make the center back; measure in at the center hack and waist line 
from ^ to ,vS. ■)4 of an inch and draw a straight line uj) from .^.t to 1 and from 3.S aL;ainst 



4 down to 7, which will complete tlie proper shape of a chemise. 



Now prepare the armhole. Divide equally the space of the armholc lictwecn 17 and 
22 makiu}^ 27 and draw a straight line down from 27 towards 2,< to 29. Take out at the 
waist line from each side of 2H to .30 and 31. j/. inch each and extend at each side of 29 
at the hip line to 14 and 32 also a y^ inch. Tlien connect lines from 27 to 30 and from 30 
against 14 down to 33 which will complete the sirle -eam of the hack. Draw a line from 
27 to 31 down against .32 to 34 will complete the side scam of the front. Now finish the 
armhole lower with 1 inch from 27 to 3S an 1 curve the l)ack armhole fiom 21 to 3S and 
the front armhole from 25 to .3S. 



Now make the opening cut-out for normal use as follows: Raise up at the centei- hack 
at the hreast line from 2 to X. 1 inch, and measure the shoulder strip at the hack from 
21 to ,39. 2 inches, and curve as shown on the diagram from .39 to X. Measure the front 
shoulder strip from 2.S to 40 and curve from 40 towards 26 to 9. This will complete 
the chemise with all necessary seams allowed, for size ,36, or which may l)c followed 
up to any other size according to tb.e tahlc of proportions given in the front pages. 



807 




T. ROSEIN^PELD'S SYSTEM 





808 




THE PRACTICAL DESIGIS^ER 




WOMAN'S ENVELOPE CHEMISE— SIZE 36 



Lesson No. 407 



In order to begin the envelope chemise draw the up])cr I'uundatiun lines .is explained 
in the first twu lessons as far as the bust line which is un the uppositc diagram linished 
to the front edge at 9 and square a straight line down from 9 towards 10. 11 and 12 and 
continue as follows: Measure from 3 to 4, 6 inches for hip line and cross a line from 4 
lo 11. Now measure 36 inches from 1 to 5 which is the normal length for a chemise 
and draw a line across from 5 to 12. Then lengthen the center hack line from .S to 6 with 
^4 of 36 inches amounting to 9 inches and square a short line of about 3 inches out from 
6 towards 7. Now make the center back; measure in at the center back and waist line 
from 3 to 35, -^^j of an inch and draw a straight line u]) from 35 to 1 and from 35 against 
4 down to 7. which will complete the proper shape of an envelope chemise. 

Now prepare the armhole. Divide equally the space of the armholc between 17 and 
22 making 27 and draw a straight line down from 27 towards 2S to 29. Take out at the 
waist line from each side of 2S to 30 and 31, y, inch each and extend at each side of 29 
at the hip line to 14 and 32 also a ^^ inch. Then connect lines from 27 to 30 and from 30 
against 14 down to 33 which will complete the side seam of the back. Draw a line from 
27 to 31 down against 32 to 34 which will com])Iete the side scam of the front. Shorten 
each side scam at ?i.^ and 34 about ■}4 of an inch each and connect 3.^ with a similar curve, as 
shown on the diagram, to 6 whicli will comjiletc the I)ottom of the liack part. 

To finish the front measure from 12 to .% the .same space as for the liottom of the 
1 ack from 6 to 7 which is 3 inches and then raise up from 36 to 37. 1 inch, and connect 
37 to 34 which will complete the bottom part of this envelope chemise. Now finish the 
armhole lower with 1 inch from 27 to ,iS and curve the back armholc from 21 to 3S and 
the front armhole from 25 to 3S. 



Now make the opening cut-out for normal use as follows: Raise up at the center back 
■*t the breast line from 2 to X. 1 inch, and-measure the shoulder strip at the back from 
21 to 39, 2 inches, and curve as shown on the diagram from 39 to X. Measure the front 
shoulder strip from 25 to 40 and curve from 40 towards 26 to 9. This will complete 
the envelope chemise with all necessary seams allowed, for size 36, or which may be 
followed up to any other size according to the table of proportions given in the front 
pages. 



809 




I. ROSENPKLD'S SYSTKM 





810 




VCTICAL DESIGNER 




WOMAN'S ONE-PIECE NIGHT GOWN— SIZE 36 



Lesson No. 408 



To begin the one-piece night-gown draw tlic foundatinii lines according to tlie tirst and 
second lessons and measure from ,i U> 26, 6 inches for hip line, and draw a line across from 
26 to 23. 'J'hen nicasiire the fnll lenyth of the sai'incnt which is alumt 60 inches inchidins- 
a small hem and measure, therefore, from 1 to 27, 60 inches for tin- full leni^th and draw a 
line from 27 to 2S. Now continue as folUjws: 



To continue di\ide e(|ually the armholc space as shown on the opposite diajjram he 
twecn S and 14 makins^- .iO. l-:.\tend at the hip line from .^1 to 29, 1 inch and dr.-Tw a lin< 



from 30 ajvainst 2') down to the hottom to 32. Raise up from 32 to 35, 1 inch and curve fro 
35 lost to 27 which will I'linish the side seam and hottom of the hack. 



Now make the front side seam. Measure 1/3 of hip on the hip line from 23 to 33 
amountin<j to 14 3/X inches according- to 43 inches liip and then conned ;i line from 30 
against 33 down to 34. Raise up at 34 also 1 inch the same as the hack and .-uld at the hottom 
of the front from 2S to 36, Jli of an inch and connect with a curved lint- from 34 to .V) which 
will finish the side seam and the hottom of the front. 



Finish the edge of the front hy drawing a straight line down from 1') against 21 down to 
36. ' Cur\e the arndioU' as usual l)y cur\ ing the hack armliole froiu 12 to 30 and the front 
armhole from 25 against 5 to 30. .As no scam is wanted at the center hack deduct .VS of 
an inch from 1 down to 27. This will comjilcte tlie one-iiiece night-gown. See next lesson 
for the night-gown with a yoke. 



811 




T. ROSKISTPI^T^D'S SYSTEM 




z-J 




812 




THE PRACTICAT. DESIGNER 




WOMAN'S NIGHT-GOWN WITH YOKE SIZE 36 



Lesson No. 409 



In order to make the iii,t!lit-t;o\vii with a yoke niaki- the ei)in])lete draft of the ono-])iece 
nifjht-jjown and act as follows: Draw a line across 1 ' _. inches alioxc the hrea^t line a- 
shown at 2 at the center hack. Then draw a line across from the armhole out from 2 to 
Z7 and allow 2 inches ]iarallel all the way down to 3.S which will increase the fullness for 
the back. 



Now cut the line across the same way 1 inch ahovc the breast line at the front and 
extend from 21 to .iO, o inches for fullness at the front. Now extend 1 inch for hutton-stand 
at the front ]Kirt which is fnmi IS to 41 down to 42. Remember we are to allow special scams 
of 3/iS of an inch at the split of the yoke between the upper and lower ])arts of the front 
and hack. Note that the allowance which is made for fullness at the front and back' is to be 
"athered in and then followed tojjcther with the upper or yoke ])art. 



Should a low neck be wanted at the neck for this or the one-piece ni,'.;fht-,cfown follow 
the curves which are shown accordinsj to the dotted linos at the hack jiart which is shown 
at 9 towards the center back and at the front from l.S towards 42. which may be chanj^ed 
to any openinjj wanted, fro'.n time to time. 



813 




T. ROSp::ivrFE:T^D\s system 





814 




THE PRACTICAL DESIONER 




WOMAN'S PRINCESS SLIP— SIZE 36 



Lesson No. 410 



To begin the princess slip draw tlu- usua 
C to D, 6 inches aiul cross a line from D to 
the waist line which is fioni C to 15, 28 inche 
which an additional bottom ripple of 12 inchc 
is wanted it shall be 40 inches made betwce 
the bottom line. Measure from C to 12, 2 in 
a line from 12 np to A and from 12 against 1 
shoulder from M to N i)reparing for the sea 
L to N making 26. Then measure from 12 t 
36 and from 11 to l.S, 4 inches and draw a li 
'J'ake out from 16 to 19, ■}4 of an inch and fro 
line from 19 towards 17 down to 20 and fro 
straitrht line on the breast line. 



foundation lines. Measure the hi]i line from 
\'.. Then measure for the bottom line from 
s which will make a short length of a skirt to 
; may be connected. If a full length skirt effect 
n C and \5. t'ross a line from 15 to 13 for 
dies and from I) to 11, 1' j inches and connect 
1 down to 15. Allow f^ of an inch to the 
m which crosses the shoulder half way from 
o 16, 1/6 of size amounting to 3 inches for size 
ne from 16 to 26 and 16 towards IS df)wn to Jl. 
m IS to 17 add j^ of an inch. Connect a straight 
ni 19 make a cur\cd line up to 26 to meet the 



Now take out at the side seam from G to f) and F. to 5. 34 of an inch and on the 
waist line from S to 10, y'j inch and connect from 9 to 10 and from 10 against 1". down 
to 25 which will complete the side seam of the back part. 

To begin the front part take out 'j inch from 4 to 3 on the waist line and connect 
with a line from 3 up to (1 and 3 against 5 down to 22. Then divide the chest between 
[•' and Y making X on the breast line. Measure the s])ace between Y and X which is about 
4' J inches for size 36 and measure the same amomit with '4 of an inch arlded which 
amounts to 4'^ inches from 7 to 30 on the waist line and draw a straight line from X 
towards 30 down to 29 which will make the dart of the front. Note that the space be- 
tween 6 and 7 is }i of an inch and square a straight line from \' up to 23 an<l from Y to 7 
down to 14. From 13 to 14 is 1 inch. 

Now complete the dart. Divide the space between X and 30 for the height of bust 
making 28. Divide the front shoulder between U and \V making 27. Then allow 3/iy of 
an inch to each side of 36 and 37. Connect a line from 36 to 28 and draw a straight 
line from 57 towards 38 with the line parallel which is drawn from 36 to 28 and fill in 
the brake with a curve from 36 towards 28 to 30. Now curve the inner part of the 
front which has the most part of the bust from 37 towards .SS down to 28 and 31. Draw a 
straight line from 30 to 32 which will complete the dart at the front which will bring the 
proper bust effect. 

To make the proper opening for the jjrincess slip raise np from Y to 23, 2 inches and 
square a line from 23 to 24 amounting to 4 inches and draw a straight line up towards 
37 as shown by the dotted line. If a round opening is wanted follow the dotted curved line 
from 27 to 23. The same space may be used at the back by measuring from L to AB as the 
space measures from W to 37. Then curve as shown by the dotted lines from AB to AC. 
.AC is half the space between A and B at the center back. Note that this garment is cut 
with all necessary seams allowed, and is cut with a center seam in back which is proper 
for this kind of fitting. 



815 




T. ROSKINTFELD'S SYSTEM 

:s/7 





816 




THE PRACTICAL DESIONRR 




WOMAN'S BLOOMERS OR KNICKERBOCKERS, FRONT PART— SIZE 36 

Lesson No. 411 

In order to begin the front part of tlie blouiiK-rs use measurements specially designcfl 
tor tlii> ])urpijse which arc partly explained in the front pages and measurements for this 
are as follows: 



Waist 25 inches 

Hip 4i inches 



Rise 12 inches 

Outside Length 26 inches 



To begin to draft watch the diagram on the opposite page and draw lines from A tf) 
R and A to C. Measure from A to B, 12 inches for rise measurement and from A to C, 
26 inclies outside lengtii and draw a line across from B to 1 and C to T. Call tiie line from 
A to R waist line; from B to I hiplinc and from C to T knee line. Then continue drafting 
according to the hip measurement and measure from B to M half of hip measurement 
amounting to 10;4 inches. I'rom H to I measure 1-6 of hip measurement amounting to 
358 inches and draw a line up from II to R. .Measure from R to U 14 of waist measure- 
ment amounting to 634 inches, according to 2.i inches waist. From (J to P allow 2 inches 
for seams and fullness. From P to Q raise up a '/2 inch and from R to X lower with a y^ 
inch and connect a line from X to Q. Allow from B to U, IJ-l inches for fullness -id 
make a side hip curve from Q to U down to the knee line to C, as shown on the diagram. 

Finish the front curve part by measuri ng the space from 11 to I and raise the same 
amount from 11. to J. Then connect a line from J to 1 and di\ide equally, making M and 
from M to N mark ^'1 inch and cur\e from J, N to I. In order to finish properly the inside 
seam take '/> inch from I to \' and draw a straight line down from \' to 1 and curve as 
shown on the diagram from I to T, which will complete the entire front i)art of the 
bloomers.. See next Ics.son for the back part. 



BACK PART— SIZE 36 



Lesson No 412 



To begin the back part of the bloomers ha\e the complete draft or pattern of the 
front part, as shown on the diagram on the opposite page, and then continue as follows : 

To begin to draft draw the waist line out from R and L to A and P and measure 
from L to A J4 of waist measurement amounting to 6^4 inches, according to 25 inches waist 
and from A to P allow 3 inches for fullness or darts. Then allow from 13 to U also 3 inches 
for fullness and at the bottom from 1 to 2 allow lyi inches. 

Now finish the back crutch part. Raise the back from L to R with 3 inches and con- 
nect a straight line from R to J, where the curve of the front crutch begins and curve 
from K to land I out to M. From I to II is 1-12 of hip measurement and from II to M 
is 1 inch allowed for seams which altogether amounts to from I and M. 2j,s inches allowed 
for the under part. Then allow from 3 to 4, 1 J/j inches for seams and fullness. This will 
complete the back part of the bloomers witli gathers around the waist and knee. 

If a fitted waist is wanted make a dart on top of the back part as shown as follows: 
Divide from P to R, making i) and draw a line down from () to T, which is 4'/S inches. 
Take out from each side of C) to V and W, 1 inch and make curves from \^ to T and W 
to T. This will complete the bloomers with all seams allowed. 

If buttoning is wanted for bloomers at the front part make the opening for such but- 
toning at the front from R to J. If buttoning is wanted at the side make the opening as 
described at the back side seam from P to U. If back-buttoning is wanted make the 
c^pening at the back from K to J. According to this method convenient opening for but- 
toning will be obtained. 



817 




I. ROSENFELD'S SYSTEM 

^y7 




o w 




4 3 



1 2 




BACK PART- 



FRONT PART 



818 




THE PRACTICAX. DESIGNER 




WOMAN'S DRAWERS, FRONT PART— SIZE 36 



Lesson No. 413 



use nicastii-cniciits specially 



In order to begin the front part for wo man's drawers 
dcsijined fur this pur|)i.ise, which are as follows: 

Waist 25 inches l\ise 18 inches 

Hip -13 inches ( )utside Length 26 inches 

To begin to draft watch diagram on the ojjpositc page. Draw a line from 1 to 4 and 
1 to .1. Measure frcmi 1 to 2. IS inches rise. According to medium height the rise measure- 
ment is 12 inches. i'Or drawers add 6 inches additional for a comfortable rise, making it 
IS inches. Then measure from 1 to 3, 26 inches outside length which is taken at the side 
of the hip from the waist to the knee. Now draw a line across from 2 io 8 and 3 to 15. 
.Measure from 2 to 7, half of 43 inches hip amuunting to 10' | inches and from 7 to iS measure 
1-6 of hip measurement amounting to oi/s inches. 

To continue sipiai'e a line up from 7 to 4 and measure from 4 to 10. '4 of 25 inches hip 
measurement amounting to 6^4 inches and from 10 to 11 allow 2 inches. From 11 to 12 
raise up -ji of an inch and connect a line from 12 to 4. Now measure the space from 7 to 
S and place the same amount from 7 to 9 and connect a line from 9 to S. Curve from 9 
to S with a >^-inch deepness, as shown on the diagram, which completes the crutch of the 
front part. 

Now finish the inside seam of the front. Draw a straight line from 4 against 8 antl 
draw a line down from tS to 15 to the bottom line of the front, which will in this way 
complete the inside seam with all the fullness needed at the bottom. Now finish the out- 
side seam and hip of the front. Measure from 2 to 13 at the hip line 2j/j inches and 
make a curve with a curved ruler from the waist point from 12 against 13 and continue 
straight down to the bottom to 14. which will complete the fmnt part. See the next les- 
son for the back part. 



WOMAN'S DRAWERS, BACK PART— SIZE 36 



Lesson No. 414 



To begin the back part for drawers make the draft of the complete front part as shown 
on the op])ositc i)age and then contmue with the back as follows: Divide the space of the 
front from 2 to S on the hip line, making 16 and draw a straight line up from 16 towards 
19 up to IS. Measure from 19 to IS, 3 mches and draw a line up to 19 against 20 to 21. 
Measure from 19 to 20, j4 of waist measurement amounting to 6J4 inches according to 
25 inches waist. I-'roni 20 to 21 add 3 inches for seams and fullness and connect a line 
from 21 to IS. Then allow from 13 to 22 and 14 to 23, 3 inches and connect with a curved 
line from 21 to 22 and 23, which will finish the outside seam of the back part. 

Now connect a line for the back curve part from IS to 9 and continue the cur\e 
according to the front crutch from 9 towards S out to 5. From 8 to 5 is 1-12 of hip meas- 
urement and 1 inch allowed for seams amounting altogether to 2-j.i inches. Draw a line 
from 4 against 5 down to 6, which will complete the inside seam of the back jiart which is 
connectable to the inside scam of the front to 8 and 15, and which will complete the entire 
draft of front and back for woman's drawers. 

In order to cut out the front and back parts of this draft trace ofif each one according 
to the heavy lines as follows: To begin to cut or trace the front begin from 12 to 13 and 
14 across to 15 up to 8 and from 8 to 9 up to 4 and connect 4 to 12. This will cut out the 
front. To cut out the back part begin from 21 to 22 and 23 and from 23 across to 6 up to 
5; from 5 towards S and 9 up to IS and from IS connect to 21. In this way the front and 
back will be entirely cut out, including the necessary seams. 

If buttoning is wanted at the side take half of the rise length between 20 and 22 at the 
lack part and between 12 and 13 at the front part, which measures full IS inches and 
half of this amount is to be left open from the waist down, which will amount to 9 inches 
for buttoning if side buttoning is desired. If front or back buttoning is desired make the 
opening from the waist line 12 inches down, which will be sufficient and convenient space 
for buttdning. 



819 




I. ROSENFELDS SYSTEM 

^y7 





This U the front and back of the two-piece crswers. See separate lessen fcr the onepitcc 
circular drawers. 



820 




THE PRACTICAL DKSiaNKK 




WOMAN'S PANTALOON PAJAMAS, FRONT PART— Size 36 



Lesson No. 415 



In order to begin tin- ])antal(>un pajain :is foliow the mitliiics accurdiii!:;- to the i)iiii- 
cii)k- tif tlK' hldDiiRTs and tlic incasurcnR'nts for the satiu' are as t\)lU>\\s: 



Waist 25 inclK's 

Hip 43 inches 

Rise 



( )utsidi- lA-n_t;tli 41 inclles 

Biittoni IN inches 

12 inches 



To begin to draft (haw lines fruni A to K and A in \). Measure from A to B 12 
inches rise and from A to D 41 inches outside Ien,L;th. Work the hip the same way on 
the hi]) line. ' j of hip measurement from B to II and from 11 to I measure 1/6 of hip 
measurement. l\aisc up a straight line from 11 to K and measure 1/6 of hip from 11 to J 
and cross a line from I to X. Measure from K to 0,\i4' of waist measurement amount- 
ing to 6^/4 inches according; to 2.t inches waist. I-'rom to P allow 2 inches for seams. 
Raise up from 1' to C) a J/' ''i*-''! ^'i*^' lower from K to R with Vj inch and connect a line 
from R to n. Then curve, from O to X down ti) R for hip curve. 

Now finish the lower i>art of the front. Dixifle the space e(|ually hetween P. and I 
making S. Then measure the space from H to S and place the same at the l)Ottom line 
from D to W and draw a straight line from W towards .S up to L. Measure from W 
to 3 at the bottom line J4 of bottom measurement which is IS inches, amounting to 
4',1. inches, hrom I to G at the hi]) line measure 1 inch and connect (i to .\ which makes 
the inside seam and connect with a curved line from 1 towards 1, which is about at the 
knee line. This will complete the front part with all seams allowed] 



BACK PART 

Lesson No. 416 



To continue with the back part note diagram of the hack. First complete the front 
iiart and then continue the back as follows: Raise the center line up from L to K and 
measure there ,1 inches. Measure from L to .\, J4 of waist measurement amounting to 
6J4 inches and from .\ to P allow 3 inches for seams and gathers for the back part. Then 
connect a line from P to K. Connect a line from K to J for the back crutch part and 
continue with a curve from J towards I to H and M. The space from I to II is 1/12 of 
hi]) measurement and from H to M is 1 inch allowed for seams. Note that H and M is 
y, inch lower from the hip line. Then add from 1 to Y and 3 to F I'j inches and the 
same amount of 1>4 inches should be allowed from 4 to 1'. and 2 to C. From B to U at 
the hip line allow 3 inches. Then curve, as shown on the diagram, the inside seam of 
the back part from M towards Y to F and the outside scam of the back ])art connect from 
1' to I' towards C to F. Then connect with a straight line at the liottom I", to V which 
will com])lete the back part with fullness around the waist. 

If fitted jiantaloon pajamas are wanted around the waist take out the dart by divid- 
ing equally from P to K making O at the back waist line. Draw a line down from O 
to'^T 4 inches and take out 1 inch from both sides of O to \" and W lost to T, as shown 
on the diagram. This will complete the back part of the pantaloon jiajamas with all 
necessary seams allowed. 



821 




I. ROSEISTFELD'S SYSTEM 

:s/7 






BACK PART- 



FRONT PART 



822 




THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 





WOMAN'S ONE-PIECE OR CIRCULAR DRAWERS— SIZE 36 

Lesson No. 417 

To make the one-piece or circular drawers cut out the front r.iid Ijack part-^ of the 
drawers cxplauicd before and then mark the front out, as shown on the 
whicli is as follows : 



opposite page, 



To begin, copy the front first from A, B, C, D to E and place the upper part of the 
back part to the upper part of the front part, which makes the connection of the wai'^t 
between the front and back parts at D and F, and at the bottom between the front and 
back, which is between E and G, allow 12 inches space. 

Then continue by copying the balance of the back part from F and H down towards 
J and I and from I to G. Then fill in the space at the waist brake by making an even 
circle curve from A towards K and H. The space of filling in from F and D to K shall 
be 2 inches and then make an equal round curve for the bottom from C towards L out to 
I. Note then that the front inside seam, which is from B to C, is to be connected with 
the back inside seam, which is from J to I. According to this instruction we will have 
the complete one-piece or circular drawers with all the necessary seams allowed 



£23 





T. ROSEISTFELD'S SYSTEM ( 




WOMAN'S ENVELOPE DRAWERS— Size //. 



Lesson No. 418 



In order to begin the envelope drawers note that tliis g^armcnt is cut on the prin- 
ciple of a circular skirt which is followed according to the waist and hip measurements. 

To begin to draft draw a line from .\ to C mcasurinp; half of waist measurement amount- 
in'^ to 12'/> inches according to 25 inches waist. Then square a line up from C to D and 
measure (5 inches for the hack raise. Measure from I) towards (\ 12!< inches, which is 
half of waist measurement and draw a line from I) to (i and square a straight line down 
from G to B, which makes the front length amounting to 26 inches for the envelope draw- 
ers. Take Y- between G and D making \\ and from H to | mark V/i inches and curve 
from G towards 1 up to D. Then make parallel 6 inches hetween G to I, J to K, and 1) 
to r and curve from I towards V. to K. Measure from I to F half of hip measurement 
amounting to 21^. inches and draw a line from D towards F and down to L and S mak- 
ing the hack line. Xow measure from D to L 26 inches hack length. Im-oui L to S meas- 
ure 9 inches for the cnxclopc elTect and from S to R make 3 inclies and curve from R 
to I\ as shown on the diagram. Make the side length al.so 26 inches from J to T an<l 
curve the bottom for the envelope drawers from B, T, P to L. The space from L to I' 
where the curve is lost is the same amount as from L to S. 

To make the side opening for the envelope drawers divide on the waist line from 
G to I making 1 and from 1 to V. on the hip line making 2 and split from 1 to 2 which 
v.ill he the proper place for opening for the envelope drawers. 



824 




THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 




WOMAN'S ONE-PIECE PAJAMAS 
Kimono Style, Front Part — Size 36 

Lesson No. 419 



To l)cgin tlie front part of the one-piece pajamas continue partly with the outlines 
of the first lesson in the following manner. Draw a straight line from 1 to 6 and 1 to 5. 
Measure from 1 to 2, 7 inches hack depth and 2 to ,5, 15j4 inches \\aist length. Then 
measure from 3 to 4, 18 inches rise and from 3 to 5, 41 inches outside length and draw 
a line across from 1 to 5 which is the top line, 2 to 7 hreast line, 3 to 8 waist line and 
4 to 9 crutch and 5 to 10 Ixittom line. 

Now make the upper part of the pajamas by measuring from 2 to 11 and 1 to 12 '.-6 
of 36 inches amounting to 3 inches and the same amount should be measured from 12 
to 13 and from 13 up to 14. Then draw a line for the front shoulder from 14 against 1 out 
to 23. In order to finish this line measure the hack shoulder and sleeve from 18 to 20 
and apply the same amount from 14 to 23. Then square a line from 23 down to 24 
and lower the armhole from 2 to 22 with 3 inches and measure the space from 1 to 
22 and apply the same amount from 23 to 24 which amounts to 10 inches and connect 
22 to 24 which will complete the kimono sleeve for the frtmt part. 

To finish the front part measure from 13 to 15, 1-6 of size amounting to 3 inches 
and allow 3-.' inch for a scam. Then measure on the breast line from 11 to 16, J4 of 
size amounting to 9 inches for size 36 and curve from 15 against 16 down to 17 and 18. 
Measure from 4 to 19 on the crutch line half of 43 inches hip amounting to 10)4 inches 
and draw a straight line up from 19 towards 18 to 17, 8, 7 to 6. 17 is half the space 
between 8 and 18. 

Now finish the lower part of the pajamas. Alcasurc from 19 to 9, 1-6 of hip measure- 
ment amounting to 35-8 inches and make the same amount from 19 up to 18. Connect a 
line from 18 to 9 and take half between 18 and 9 making 21 and curve a 3^ inch below 21 
to 9 from 18, as shown on the diagram. Now take half between 9 and 19 making 20 and 
square a line down from 20 to 10 and make a curve from 9 to 10, as shown on the diagram. 
If a straight side seam is wanted use the straight line from 4 to 5. If a shapy effect is 
wanted take y!- inch off at 5 and follow the heavy line from 4 to 5. 

For button-stand allow 1 inch which is to begin at the front neck at 15 and continue 
the same down to 17 which is about the proper length of opening for pajamas. At the same 
time, make the curve of the front neck as shown on the diagram. If more opening is 
wanted than the natural neck curve follow the trace line below the neck as shown on the 
front and back diagrams which is 3 inches cut out from ( the ordinary neck curve. This 
may be changed for more or less opening which, as a rule, is followed according to the 
style, from time to time. This completes the pajamas with all scams allowed. 



825 




"'^ \ 



T. ROSEIN^FELD'S SYSTEM 





826 




THE PRACTICAL DESIGIS^ER 




WOMAN'S ONE-PIECE PAJAMAS 
Kimono Style, Back Part — Size 36 

Lesson No. 420 



To begin the one-piece pajamas use measurements according- to the proportions of size 
,■16 and use xhv I'uundaiiun liius ui tlie tirst lesson as follows: Draw a straii^ilit line from 1 to 4 
and 1 to 5. Measure from 1 to 2. 7 inches back depth as for the lirst lesson, i-'rom 1 to 3 
measure IS'-j inches waist lent^'th and from 3 to 4 measure 18 inches rise lenjjth. Then 
draw all lines across from 1 to 5 top line; 2 to 6 breast line; 3 to 7 waist line and 4 to iS 
crutch. Xow measure from 1 to 5 and 4 to S, 1-3 (jf 36 inches amounting to 12 inches p-'d 
connect a line from 5 towards H down to 12 and measure 41 inches outside length froi 1 7 
to 12 an<l from 12 dra\\' a line across to 11 which is the bottom line. 

Now make the width of back. Take half between 2 and 6 on the breast line making 
14. From 14 to 15 allow 134 inches. Measure the space lietween 2 and 15 and make the 
same space from 1 to 16 and connect a Imc from 15 to 16. 



Now make the back neck. Measure from 
1 inch and curve for a close neck from 1 to 18. 
kimono slee\e from 18 against 16 out tow 
from 20 to 21. The space from 19 to 20 is 12 
space for a deep armhole from 6 to 22, 3 inches 
1 .inch in. Measure the space from the line 
and measure the same amount of 9 inches 
a cur\ e from 23 towards 8 which is at the side 
a normal shoulder with armhole scpiare a line 
width of shoulder from 18 to 19. Should a 
shoulder width between 18 and 19 and also 
and 2 and make a curve, as shown by the 
back. 



1 to 17, 3 inches and raise up from 17 to 18, 

Then draw out a line for the shoulder and 

ards 19 and 20. Now square a line down 

inches for a short kimono sleeve. Lower the 

for a kimono armhole. From 2 to 23 make 

below 5 to 22 which amounts to 9 inches 

from 20 to 21 and connect 2J to 23 and make 

line lost to the crutch line. Should we want 

from 19 down to 15 which will give the normal 

low cut-out neck be desired take half of the 

half the space at the center back between 1 

dotted line from the top shoulder to the center 



To complete the lower part of the pajamas measure at the crutch line from 4 to 10, 
1-6 of hip amounting to 3% inches and connect a straight line up from 10 to 1 and square 
a line down from 10 to 11. Then add another 1-6 of hip measurement from 10 to 9 and 
cur\e from 9 to 1 1 and make the crutch curve from 9, as shown on the diagram, up towards 
the center back line which goes to 1. For more fullness at the side seam cut out draft 
according to the straight line from 8 to 12 and for a narrower l)ottom take off from 12 to 
13, I2 incli and make 13 lost to 8 which will complete the back part of the one-piece 
pajamas, with all seams allowed. 



For back buttoning with gathering for 
chemise. 



these i)ajanias see back part of combination 



827 




T. ROSENFELD'S SYSTEM 

:\/7 



^ 




^ 



16 



18 



g rT""^|/^ < 




8(. 



©1 



CO 



SIX 9- 



828 




THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 




WOMAN'S COMBINATION CHEMISE, Back Part— Size 36 

Lesson No. 121 

In order to begin tliL- cwmhiiiatiiiii cluniisc use the similar fuiindatiuii outlines of the 
pajamas hy niakiit!^- use i)t the 7 inches l-acU depth from 1 to 2. 15 'j inclies waist len^tli 
from 1 to ,1 and rise measure from 3 to 4. Accordin.y: to this foundation draw lines 
across Irum 1 to 5, 2 to 0. o to 7 and 4 to Iv Then measure additional <S inches for the 
drawers elTect from IC to A and draw lines across from A tu I!. The space between 1 
and 5 and 4 and V. is 1-3 of si/.e amounting to 12 inches the same as explained before. 

To continue the comliination cfTect for this back part measure from 4 to 10 and 10 to 
'. 1-6 of hip measurement for each amounting to ojs inches, or altogether, the space from 
4 to 9 amounts to 1-3 of hip measurement amounting to 7H inches. Stiiiare a line 
down from 9 to B and increase tor more fullness at the Ijottom from B to C witii 1 inch and 
connect C to 9. Increase with 1 inch from A to D and draw a straiglit line from D to 13 and 
Irom 13 cnr\e uji to 23 the same way as for the one-jjiece pajamas. Tlie siiace between 22 
and 23 is 1 incli. Remember that according to this instruction wc will liave the armholc 3 
inches deep from 6 to 22 and, therefore, curve the armhole, as shown on the diagiam, from 
19 down to 23. Then finish the center back for more fullness l)y drawing a sfaight line 
from 1 down to 10 which is at the crutch, and curve from 9 up towards 20 for obtaining '"■. • 
ordinary Iiack part for the combination chemise. 

If back buttoning with fullness is desired note the following changes. Take half between 
2 and 4 which is between breast and crutch lines making 11. From 11 draw a line out to 
12 and 13 and measure from 20 to 12, 3 inches for gathering. In order to cut in the opening 
divide the space equally between 12 and 13 making 21 which is the place to cut in for the 
opening of back buttoning, as shown on the diagram. Then connect a line from 12 to 10 
and cur\ e from 12 down towards 9, as shown on the diagram, which will complete the back 
for back buttoning with gathering around the lack jiart of tiie hip. 

For cutting out the back part for this par;icular style begin to cut the back from the 
lo]) from 1 to 20, from 20 to 21 down to F. Then continue cutting out from 20 to 12 
towards 9 down to C and fromC cross to D up towards S to 13 and 23. .As a rule, this 
garment is to be cut with a low neck opening. Therefore, take half between 1 and 2 makirj^ 
H and take 3 inches from 18 to G and cut from H to G and from G to 19 which com- 
pletes the back part for this garment with all scams allowed. 



WOMAN'S COMBINATION CHEMISE, Front Part— Size 36 

Lesson No. 42 2 



To begin the front part for the combina 
ciple as for the back or exactly the same as 
lack depth: 1 to 3, 15]^ inches waist length a 
from 1 to 6, 2 to 7. 3 to S and 4 to 9 and con 
onc-piect pajamas with the exception of mak 
3 irichcs between 2 and 22 and make a curve 
draw a line down from 9 to 91 and measinx 
from 91 to 21 and extend from 4 to 20. 1 inch 
down towards 20 and 21. 

Now allow for button-stand 1 inch from 
as for the one-piece pajamas. If full length 
Inittoning to 18. Then continue the curve 

As a low neck is wanted for the combinati 
a'-d divide from 15 to 16 making D and curve 
diagram. Otherwise, this front part of the 
recessary seams allov.ed. For cutting out 



tion chemi.sc draw outlines on the same prin- 
for the front pajamas. iM-om 1 to 2 is 7 inches 
nd 3 to 4 is IS inches rise. Then draw lines 
tinue the front jjart the same way as for the 
ing the armhole according to the'dcepness of 
from 1 to 22 for the front armholc. Then 
there S inches and draw a straight line across 
. Now draw a straight line from 22 against 3 

15 down towards 16 to 17 in the same manner 
buttoning is wanted to the crutch continue the 
of the crutch from 18 to 9 as usual. 

on chemise measure from 14 to C, 3 inches 
from C to D for a low neck, as shown on the 
combination chemise is completed with all 
follow the heavy lines of this diagram. 



829 




T. ROSENFELD'S SYSTEM 





830 




THK PRACTICAL DF.SlGNKi^ 




WOMAN'S STEP-IN CHEMISE— Size 36 
Lesson No. 423 

In order to begin the step-in chemise, i)r(.'i);u c tin- cnniplili' foundatimi ul' tin- ordi- 
iiarv clifniise, which is fully cxiilained on i);i,i;c-s f<b(i ami 807, ami tlini (.■(Mitimir as follows: 

To continue for the step-in chemise, niuasmr from tlif hruast line ilnwn. which is from 
2 to 7, IS inches, and draw a line from 7 t(.i 77. which is the proper len.u'lh f(i|- the up])er 
part of this chemise. Then there will remain a balance of 11 inche> from 7 to .t. and )ou will 
note that 5 is the lujttom line of the ordinary chemise. Now lowei- from 7 to 44 at the 
ci'ntei' hack line with 1 inch and at the front from 77 to 53 lower with 2 inches and connect 
a line from 44 to 36. which completes the leni^th in the jirojier bha|)e for the hack. Also 
connect a line from .55 tu 37, which will linish in tin- propiT shape the hottoin of the front. 
W hen tiiese bottom lines are completed we are about ready to ])repare the sejjarate parts of 
the sttp-in elTect on the \ery same foundation, rherefore. note that the line from 7 to 77 
is the l)e!.;'inninij line for the lower part or steji-in effect. 

To complete the step-iri effect for the back part, measure the space hctuceu 5 and 6. 
and note that the line at 6 is the line continued from the center back seam of the chemise, 
which is continued from 35 towards 4 down to 6. Therefore, measure the s])acc from 5 to 6 
and apply the same from 5 to 66 and draw a line from 6 towards 66 to S8. Now measure the 
s])ace from 6 to 66 and apply the same from 65 to SS. Then curve from SS, as shown on 
the diajjram, lost t<j 33, which will make the bottom curve of the back ])art of the ste])-in 
ert'ect. Now measiu'e at the bottom of the front from 12 to SO. 3 inches and also from 12 
to SI, 3 inches and connect with a line from SI to SO. You will note that the S])ace from SO 
to SI measures the same amount as the space at the back from 6 to SS and then curve the 
l)ottom of the front from 34 to SI. Coimcct a line fioni 77 to SO, which is the front edj^c of 
the front part iov the step-in effect. 

The neck opening for this garment, as a rule, is made on the same principle as for 
the ordinary chemise, with a slight difference that it is made with a lost shoulder strip. 
Therefore take half of each shoulder, for the back from 20 to 21, makinj"; 39, and curve from 
X to 39, and from 39 to the armholc deepness at ?iH. The front shoulder di\ide the same 
way from 24 to 25, making 40, and curve from 40 to 9, to the front edt^e, and from 40 t(3 3S. 
to the bottom of the armhole, as shown on the diagram. Should a \' shape neck be wantrd, 
follow the trace lines for the front from 40 to 9 an<l for the back from 39 to X. 

To cut out the step-in effect, note that the straight line from 7 to 77 is the t(jp line 
of the step-in effect and therefore cut out the back from 36 to 7, to the center hack down to 
6, from 6 to SS, and from SS to ^3 up to 36. To cut out the front, cut from 37 to 77 down to 
SO and 81, and from SI to 34 uj) to 37. When these ])arts are cut out you will note, as a 
rule, there are no seams allowed at the side of the step-in effect, and, therefore, see instruc- 
tions below. 

Also note that according to the usual rule the liottom of the stcj^-in from 6 to SS and 

SO to SI are seamed together, l)ut for more jiractical use according to our diagram we show 

the same can he buttoned. Therefore allow 1 inch button-stand at the bottom of the back 

part from 6 to A and SS to B. as shown on the ag am. (;therwise, this step-in chemise is 

complete with all necessary seams allowed. 

Lesson No. 424 



To make the step-in effect in one-piece, cut out as explained and cojiy the back part 
as shown on the miniature diagram from A, B, C, D, to K, and jilace the front side seam 
next to the hack side seam from F to D and G to E and continue copying the front part to 
H, I and J and connect J to G. as shown on the diagram. Sec that the brakes are filled in 
at the top at D to F and at the bottom at G to E. This makes the step-in eft'ect in one- 
piece with all necessary seams allowed. 



831 




T. ROSEJSTFELD'S SYSTEM 





832 




THE PRACTICAL DESIONER 





THE STUDY OF THE STOUT FORM 

Lesson No. 425 

In order to clothe the stout form inniKTly we llnd many 
dianj^cs in Itjrniality. 'I'hi.' chaui^xs arc shcjw n in many re- 
spects as tliere are reynlar stunts, short stouts and extra stouts. 
Xute iUu.^L atiun and table ut propurtiuns. 

The regular stout form is Iniill in regular natural waist 
length. I'he width dI l)ac]< is pru])()rti(jnately Ijuilt to its size. 
The l)ust measurement is increased according to its pro[)or- 
tions. The all-around waist is increased or over-built, accord- 
ini>: to size, which makes this form a stout. 

The short stout form is gr'-'-itly changed in natural \.aist 
length, 1 eir.j;- a t;reat deal shorter on account of tlie heiji;ht. 
The bust measurement is somewhat full and shows a f^reat 
deal larfjer on accoimt of the short height. The waist is 
particularly over-built, similar to tlie natural proportions of a 
stout. The sleeve is a great deal shorter than for the regular 
stout or the proportionately built jicrson. As the armhole 
of every stout is to occupy large deepness, the under-arm for 
this short stout is particularly \ery short. 

The extra stout form is greatly changed on account of its 
height. The back (k-])th and natur;il waist length is long. The 
slee\e length is full length, similar tf) the regular proportionate 
large size, which m;iv 
inches. 



le for the extra stout form frtnn 1'* to 20 



In order to make the foundation pattern, make the founda- 
ti(;n outlines for drafting according to the table of proportions 
given on the oppos.'ce page for any branch of stouts desired. 
By all means follow the rules and regulations as for the regular 
proportions, with the exception of using the measurements 
for stouts. The model size for short stouts is size 41 and the 
model size for regular stouts is size 45. 



833 




T. ROSEISTFELD'S SYSTEM 




Proportional Stout Measurements for Womei l; Gormcntr-— for Height of 5 feet 6 inches 



Lesson No. 426 



Size 










Natural 




Inside 


Width 


or 








Back 


Waist 


Side 


Sleeve 


of 


Chest 


Bust 


Waist 


Hip 


Depth 


Length 


Length 


Length 


Back 


40 


43 


30 


45 


7/2 


15/, 


8 


18 


7H 


41 


44 


31 


46 


7H 


15/, 


7J-S 


18 


8 


42 


45 


32 


47 


n^ 


15/. 


7-M 


18 


8 '-8 


43 


46 


32/. 


47/2 


7n 


15/ 


75/^ 


18 


8/ 


44 


47 


33 


4S 


8 


15/ 


7/2 


17M 


8^ 


45 


4S 


33y2 


48/2 


8/8 


15/2 


7Y^ 


17M 


8/2 


46 


49 


34 


49 


8^ 


15/ 


7M 


17-M 


8^ 


47 


49!/2 


34/2 


49/2 


m 


15/2 


7y^ 


17/2 


8->4 


48 


50 


35 


50 


8/2 


15/ 


7 


17/2 


87/<i 


49 


50^2 


35/2 


50/2 


8/8 


\SH 


6/4 


17/ 


9 


50 


51 


36 


51 


8-M 


15^s 


6/2 


17>4 


9y» 


51 


52 


37 


52 


8^ 


15/8 


6/2 


17J4 


9/ 


52 


53 


38 


53 


8-M 


15>4 


6H 


17 


9H 


53 


54 


39 


54 


8-K 


15>4 


6K 


17 


9/2 


54 


55 


40 


.10 


8^ 


15/i 


6M 


17 


9/8 




Short 


and Stoui 


t Proportions — for 


Height of 


5 feet 4 inches. 




38 


41 


28 


43/2 


7H 


14/8 


7>4 


17 


7H 


39 


42 


29 


44 


7/2 


\^'^ 


7M 


17 


7y^ 


40 


43 


30 


44/2 


7/8 


147,s 


7>4 


17 


7n 


41 


44 


31 


45/2 


7H 


15 


m 


I6/2 


8 


42 


45 


32 


46/2 


7% 


15 


7% 


16/ 


8;ii 


43 


45y2 


33 


47 


8 


15 


7 


I6/2 


8-4 


44 


46 


34 


47/2 


8J4 


15 


6/8 


16/ 


8^ 


45 


47 


35 


48 


8^ 


15 


6-ki 


16M 


8/2 


46 


47y2 


36 


48/2 


8^ 


15 


(>% 


16M 


8^ 


47 


48 


37Vz 


49 


8/2 


15 


6/2 


16M 


8-M 


48 


49 


38 


49/2 


8/8 


15 


m 


WA 


8/s 



834 




THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 




WOMAN'S TIGHT-FITTING DRAWERS. FRONT PART— Size 36 

Lesson No. 427 



To begin the tight-fitting drawers trout jiart fh-;i\\ uutliiu'S accurflin.!; Id the saiiR' 
principii.' as inv t!io pantaloons with the excL'iJtioii of tin- lower pa)t. whicli i-- ihc kni-c, calf 
and ankle and use nieasurenients. as lulluws: 



( )ulsidc k-nL;l!i 41 inclics 

Rise 12 inches 

Waist 25 inches 

Hip 43 inches 



Knee l.i inelu'S 

C alt 15 inches 

Ankle 12 inches 



In order to begin follow the nppcr part from waist to hi]) as ex|)lained for the |>antaloon 
l)aianias. .\Ieasnre from A to C'. 12 inches rise and from A to (1. 41 inches outside leui^'th. 
Then di\ide e(|ually helween 11 and d makins^' \' and raise up fn ni \', 2 inches niakins;- (.'. 
Cross a line from A to K lor waist line; R to I hi]) line and from C" to 1 knee line. Measure 
from C to I'", l(jwer with 6 inches and cross a line from I-" to 3 for calf line and ( i to 5 for 
bottom or ankle line. Allow from B to U. I'i inches 1'(jr fullness and curve from O to U 
which is from the waist to the hip at the side seam. Then divide the space 
ecpially between P. anrl 1 makin,^- S and draw a line u]) from S to L and from S down 
towards \'. W and T. which niakt's the center line for the front jiart of the ti.^ht.-litting 
drawers. 

Now make the knee, ankle and call as follows: Note that the knee measurement is l.i 
inches. Take 34 »f 13 inches amountin<? to 3J4 inches and measure it at each side of V to 1 
and 2. Measure 15 inches for calf, takinjj J/4 of 15 inches amounting' to 3^'4 inches at each 
side of W to 3 and 4 on the calf line. To make the ankle or i)ottt)m of the front see that the 
ankle or bottom amounts to 12 inches. Take Vj of 12 inches amounting- to 3 inches at each 
side of T to 5 and 6. Make curves accf)rdin<;- lo the diasfram of the front ]>art for the 
outside from Q to U towards 2 and 4 down to 6 and for the inside seam make a curve from 
I, 1 and 3 down to 5. This comjiletes the front part with all scams allowed. 



Back Part— Size 36 
Lesson No. 428 



To make the back part continue on the front part as follows: Raise a straight line up 
from L lo K measuring 3 inches. Draw a line from L to P and measure from L to A 34 of 25 
inches waist amounting to 6'4 inches and allow from .\ to !'. 3 inches for scams and full- 
ness. Allow from B to U. 3 inches and from 2 to C. 4 to !•: and 6 to G, 1J4 inches. Then 
curve from K to the main crutch of the front to j. as shown on the diagram, and curve 
from J to 1 down towards H and M. Measure, as "usual, from I to M, 1/12 of hij) measure- 
ment and from II to M is 1 inch allowed for scams. .Allow 1 '4. inches for seams from 1 
to Y, 3 to F and 5 to D and curve the bottom from (', to D. Should a more fitted waist 
l)e wanted follow the dart instructions as explained in the lesson of the jiantaloon jiajamas. 



835 




T. ROSENFELD'S SYSTEM 









(>3 (^ *-<^-^, 




^5 



'-4) 



Back Part— Size 36 



Front Part— Size 36 



836 




THE PRACTICAL DKSiaNEil 




WOMAN'S KIMONO EFFECT FOUNDATION— Size 36 



Lesson No. 429 



In order to begin tlu- Idmoiio cfTcct touiulatiiin draw tlii' ordinarv nutliiu's according' to 
tlu- lirsl and second k'SSuns L>f this nuIuhk- as far as tlu' l>ust with scams allowed and then 
dixidc tlu' arniliok' equally, as follows: 

To begin dixidc the space between S and 14 on the breast line, which is the arniliole 
space niakini;' 26. Draw a line down from 26 to 27 which is at the waist line. Take o\it 
from each side of 26 at the breast line to .t and 2X, ]/i inch each, and al the waist line fioni 
each side of 7 to 29 and .>0 take out 1 inch each or whatever the style may require, and connect 
a line for the side scam of the back from 2S to 30 and for the front side seam from ^ to 2'). 
Make the armhole with I'j inches dee])er from 26 to .il and .i2 which is useful for the 
kimono style. 

To make the back part of the kimoncj style continue a line from the shoulder from 11 
towards 9 out to 33 and measure from the regular width of shoulder, which is from 12 to }>}> 
for a short slce\e lensjth. 12 inches. Then square a line down from 33 to 34 and in order 
to !L(et the width of sleeve measure the parallel space from 35 to 32 and apply the sam 
amount wliich is about S^j inches from TtT) to 34 and connect a line fi-oni 32 to 34 whic 
will linish the back i)art of the kimono efl'cct. 



me 

h 



To finish the front part of the kimono effect raise 3 inches from 20 to 36 and connect a 
line from 36 to 4, which is the width of front shoulder and measure 12 inches for the sleeve 
lentitii from 4 to M. Now measure the width of hack sleeve from 30 to 34 about Sj/S inches 
and measure with 1 inch additionally amounting- to 9i{, inches from },! to 3S. Now connect 
with a line from 3S to 31. which will complete the front kimono sleeve. 

Now finish the bottom of this kimono efifect foundation the same as for tlic corset cover 
or according to any other style this is made to l>e used. This kimono style foundation -s 
useful for all garments that they may be built with a kimono style, such as. ni,i;ht gowns, 
pajamas, etc. This lesson is complete with all necessary seams allowed. 



837 




T. ROSENFELD'S SYSTEM 





838 




THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 




WOMAN'S PAJAMA BLOUSE— Size 36 



Lesson No. 430 



In order to begin Ihr pajain;! hldusc ti)llcn\ the iiicaMirciiicnts and rMunilatidii uullint-s 
acciirdin;^- to the liist and sccuiid lessons ut tliis \ulunu' as far as the Inist nua^urcnicnt 
with scams allowed, and then continue as follows: 

Make the bottom line for the complete leniith by nK'asurin};- 12 inches from C to 7.7. 
and draw a line across from 7/7 to Z. This will hriny a normal len,t;'th for the pajama 
blouse. Xow square a line down from the breast line wJiich is from V to W and extend 
at the waist line from W to Y, 1 inch and draw a line from \' against Y down to Z which 
will give the edge of the front. I'rom \' connect a line up to the front neck ])oint to R. 
As a rule, a low opening is made for the p.ijama blouse, then draw a straight line from 
the frcnit shoulder point from 1' to \' and allow i;4 inches for l)utton-stand from \' to 4 
at the breast line, Z to 5 at the bottom line and connect 4 to 5. Should it be necessary to 
have the Imtton-stand all the way up to the r.cck continue Ij^ inches parallel to the front 
neck edge u\> to f\. 

Now make the side seam and armho'l?. Divide equally the space between II and M 
making .\.\ and di'aw a straight line down from A.\ to 1. Take out from each side of 
A.V to 1". and X a ' j inch. Ciu-ve from X i:o IC down to the l)ottom line lost to 1. Should 
we want a more straight side blouse dedu;t a Yj inch at the bottom line at each side of 
1 to 2 and ,i and connect X to 3 and li to ?.. Then raise u]) H of an inch at 1, which is 
the bottom oi the side seam and cur\c ZZ U) 1, \vhich is the bottom curve of the hack and 
curve from 1 to Z to the edge of the front for the liottom of the front. 'J'hen curve the 
armholc for ordinary deepness at the Isack from I. to X and for the front from 1 to K. 
As no seam back is wanted, follow the straight line of the center back from A to ZZ and 
deduct there ^(< of an inch for no scam back as shown on the diagram by the dotted Ime. 

To make the pocket in the jialch style at the breast part of the blouse jilacc the same 
1 inch in from M to 6 and draw a line from 6 to 7 about y^ inch bias from the breast line 
down. Measure from 6 to 7, 5 inches for size 36 whicli is a J/ inch more than ^ of 
size. Now draw a line down from 6 to 9 and 7 to S and measure tlicre 1 inch additional, 
amounting to 6 inches and connect 8 to 9, which will complete tlie bottom of the ]iatch 
pocket which may be changed according to style or taste. 

Should a lower pocket be wanted use the same instruction, with the exccjition that 
the lower pocket is to he placed at least 2 inches below the waist line. The size of the 
pocket is to occu])y the same space. This completes the pajama l)louse with all necessary 
seams allowed. 



839 




I. ROSJENFELD'S SYSTEM 





840 




THE PRACTICAL DF.SIGIS^ER 





WOMAN'S STANDING COLLAR— Size 36 



Lesson No. 431 



The standing collar wliich i.> itscfnl lor all Initton-iip necks, which is specially used 
for the pajaina hlouse, is followed according to the neck measurement, which is 14 inches 
for size 36. To draft act as follows: 



To begin draw a line from .\ to 1> and B to D. l\IeasmH' from A to B, 3 inches, and 
from B to D, 15 inches, which is 14 inches for all-around neck measurement and 1 inch 
for scams. Then .measure from D to C, 3 inches, and connect a line from A to C. Now 
divide from B to D. makintj K, and draw a line up from 1<". to F. Raise up from B to H 
and 1) to I. 1 inch each and lower from F to d, with 1 inch at the center line. Curve, as 
shown on the diagram, from .\, K to (1 and from (1 to | and C. Also curve from H to 
I'^, and from I', to I. Deduct a Jj inch from A to K and C to J and draw a line from K 
to II and J to I, which will comjilete the standing collar with all necessary seams allowed. 



841 




I. ROSENFELD'S SYSTEM 





WOMAN'S FLAT COLLAR— Size 36 



Lesson No. 432 



The flat collar is also used on all lnitton-ui)-ncck jjnrnients and lays flat over the shoul- 
ders, and produces no stand. In order to ]iroduce the ?anie use the front and back of a 
l)utton-up sarnient and copy the nccl< of the I.ack first, as shown on the diagram, from 
A to C, C to n. .\ to B and B to D. Then lap-over the front part at the shoulder seams 
hy deducting a Yi inch at C to E and D to F and continue copying the front neck from 
C to G and G to II according to the edge of the front and copy from H to D all around 
to F and R. which will complete the width of the collar. 

The width of this collar, which is from A to I! and G to 11. shall he about 4 inches, 
which will complete the collar in a 3-inch width when all seams are deducted. -Accord- 
ing to this instruction all seams arc allowed. 



842 




THE PRACTICAL. DESIGjN^ER 




WOMAN'S ONE-PIECE SLEEVE ON TOP OF ARMHOLE 



Lesson No. 433 



In order to begin the sleeve note tliat I'oi- underwear wlicre slt'cvcs arv ncccsi^ary only 
ouc-piccL' sli.'c\cs. as ;i rule, an.- used. There lore, nute the diagram on tlie opiiosite page 
showing how simply \\ c can ol)tain a one-piece sleeve on top of the arnihole which saves 
a great deal of time and material. When a one-piece slccx'c is desired com])letc the entire 
draft of the garment wanted witli an equal di\ided armholc and then act as follows: 

To begin measure 1/S uf si/.e amounting to 4'S inches at the back from II to .■! and the 
same from .1 to 4. For tlic front measure the same 1/8 of si/.e from .M to 1 and 1 to 2. 'Hun 
connect a line frtjm 2 to 4 as shown on the diagram, and draw a line down at the hack from 
3 to 5 and at the front from 1 to 6. Measure the inner sleeve length wliich is for the full 
length sleeve IS inches and measure this amount from 3 to 5 and 1 to 6. 'ilien connect a 
line for the l-.ottoni of sleeve from 5 to 6. Now note that in order to complete tlic head of 
the sleeve we curve for the hack part of the sleeve from 4 towards 1 1 to 1". !•". and lor tlie front 
liead of the sleeve we curve from ]•", towards 12 to 2. This will complete the upjicr ])art of 
the sleexc wliicli will lit the particular armhole the sleeve is drafted on. 

To finish the hottom of the slee\c to any width desired, we slu)uld lirst rlccidc tin: 
width wanted. I'or instance, make 12 inches for the bottom or cufi' of this sleeve. In 
such case, measiu'e from 5 to 7 at the back part 6 inches and at the front part from 6 to S also 6 
inches and connect with a ciu'vcd line, as shown on the diagram, frtnn V.K to 7 for the 
back sleeve and curve from K to S for the front slee\e. Then add a J/> inch at the l)ottoni 
sleeve from 3 to 9 and connect 9 to 7 and the same way add a J/, inch from 6 to 10 and 
■.•onnect with a curve from 8 to 10, whicli wi 1 complete tlie entire cine-piece slee\'e with all 
neces.sary seams allowed. 

If the sleeve is desired in '{., 14 "'" ■'1 length, then act as follows: For a J{> length sleeve 
take half of the' inside length from V.K to 7 or !•" to 8 which amounts to inches for a 1/2 
sleeve length. If a 5^4 length sleexe is desired take J-^ from !■" and Fl"' down towards the 
bottom whicb amounts to 4K' inches. When a -H length sleeve is wanted take ^ of the 
inside length from the armhole down, which amounts to 13,'{. inches. The full length 
sleeve as the diagram shows is from the armh.ole down and amounts to 18 inches. 



843 




T. ROSEISTFELD'S SYSTEM { 





844 




THE PRACTICAX. DESIGNER 




WOMAN'S TWO PIECE OR FOUR-GORE PETTICOAT— Size 36 



Lesson No. 434 



In order to begin the petticoat use tlic lolk)\viiig standard mcasurcnirnts or for stylish 
iiira>un'nK'iits Sfi.' the i'ractical .\d\isev of I'ropiirtions. 

Waist 25 inclics Front Lcnf;;th 40 iiiclif ■■; 

1 lip 43 inches Side Lcnijth 41 inches 

Hack Lentith 42 inches 

To begin draw a line from 1 to 2 and 1 to 3 and measure half of 25 inches waist measurement 
from 1 to 4 amounting to 12j/. inches. Then allow from 4 to 3. 3 inches for fullness and allow 
1 inch additional if only a side seam is wanted, which is useful for a two-piece petticoat. If 
tliis petticoat is supposed to be four-gore allow 2 inches for seams and 3 inches for fullness 
for which the total amount, in such case, will he 5 inches between 4 and 3. Then raise u\) 
from 3 to 5. 4>j inches and connect with a line from 1 to 5. Raise up from 1 to 9, 1 inch and 
curve, as shown on the diagram, from 9, 10 to 5. 

Now measure from 1 to 6 and 5 to 7, 6 inches and draw a line from 6 to 7 making th? 
hi]) line. Measure froni 6 to 7 half of 43 inches hip measurement amounting to 21j/i inches 
and 1 inch additional for a seam making 22^j inches. Draw a line from 5 towards 7 down 
to S and measure from 5 to 8, 42 inches back length. Now divide the space on the waist lin..' 
from 9 to 5 equally making 10. Measure the bottom from 2 to iS making 11 and connect a 
line from 10 to 11 and measure from 10 to 11, 41 inches side length. Now curve the bottom 
from 2 towards 11 to 8. This completes the petticoat in tworpieces or four-pieces with 
gathers at the waist. 

Should no gathering be wanted around the waist, then measure the waist curve from 9 
to 5. If the space there measures 18 inches take out for a dart the amount that is over half of 
waist including the amount allowed for seams, which is as follows: Half of 25 inches waist 
is 12',^ inches and if 2 inches are allowed for seams which makes 14^, in such case, deduct 
14' S inches from 18 inches, which shows there is an over-amount of 3,'<> inches. In this case, 
take out from each side of 10 to 12 and 13, IJ4 inches and curve from 12 and 13 lost to the 
hip line to 14. This will complete the two-piece or four gore petticoat. 



84S 




T. ROSENFELD'S SYSTEM 







^ 




846 




THE PRACTICAL DESIONER 




WOMAN'S FIVE-GOfiE PETTICOAT— Size 36 



Les-icn No. 435 



To begin the five-gore petticoat inakc tlio fuuiidaticiii outlines as for tlic lesson explained 
before with the dilTercnce that we are to allow 2' i inches for 5 seams at the waist ;.nd hip 
lines after nieasurintj the waist and hip measurements. Begin by measuring the front panel 
which is 3 inches from 12 to 13 at the waist line and 6 inches at the bottom curve ;rom 2 
to 14. and draw a straight line from 13 to l-\ 

Now divide the inner gores. Di\ ide the sj^.tcc cquallj' from 13 to 6 at the waist line making 
15 and the same way divide the bottom curve from 14 to 10 making 11 and draw a straight 
line from 15 to 11 making the side seam for a five-gore petticoat. If fullness is wanted at 
the waist line leaNe the foundation as it is without taking any dart out. Should we want a 
dart follow the rule and regulationr- as explained in the last lesson. 

Take special notice that this petticoat can be drafted according to any measurements 
wanted. For instance, if a large waist measurement is desired with small hip measurement, 
which is. as a rule, changeable every season according to the shape of various models use 
the same system according to such measurements. If 28 inches waist measurement is de- 
sired simply measure according to this diagramfrom 1 to 3, li of 2S inches waist measurement 
amounting to 14 inches. Then continue from ,i to 4 allowing 3 inches for fullness and allow 
for this ii\e-gore petticoat from -I to 5, 2^-2 inches for seams and raise the same way up a 
line from 5 to 6 amounting to 41-j inches. Otherwise, act as explained before including hip 
measurement whatever it may be with the understanding that according to this diagram w'c 
measure J--2 of hip measurement from 7 to 8 and allow 2', 1> inches for seams from 8 to 9, \\hich 
is the same amount as allowed at the waist. Then draw a back line from 6 toward 9 and 
10 and finish the bottom of this petticoat as usual. 

If petticoats are desired for misses' sizes, all it would be necessary is to use the waist 
and hip measurements as given on the tabic ofproportions for misses' sizes. Lengths may be 
followed according to the table of proportions or according to style. It is very important to 
know that lengths are, as a rule, followed according to style, because the petticoat is always 
to be shorter with 1 or 2 inches than the dress or skirt and, therefore, the length shall be 
guided according to the length of skirts or dresses. 



847 




T. ROSENFELD'S SYSTEM 

\/7 





L 

^ 




848 




THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 




MISSES' FOUNDATION OUTLINES— Size 16. 



Lesson No. 436 

In order to begin the misses" foundation outlines all w c irthI ti; rrnn-inlKr is the 
clilTi'ii-iR-c l)it\\(.c'ii woiiu'ii's and misses' proportions, anil for best results the student will 
act practieallx Uy eonipariny the measurements of a woman's size .•16 an<l a misse>' size lO 
for which the table ut propurtiuns are prepared in the frinit pages of this volume. To begin 
to draft wc arc to prepare the foundation according to standard measurements, wliich arc as 
follows : 



r.ack depth 6-;;) inches 

Waist length 15 inches 

.Ml around w aist . . . 



All around chest . . . 

Bust 

2,1 inches 



... .34 inches 
. . . .?i7 indies 



To begin to draft draw scpiare lines as usuil from .\ to C and .A to R. Then measure from 
A to r>, 6V4 inches back depth and from A to C, 15 indies natural waist length and draw 
lines from .X to R, B to \V and C to X. Measure 2/3 of 34 inches whicli is the chest measure- 
ment for size 16 amounting to 11 3/X inches from .\ to D, B to !■" and C to F. 

Now prepare the width of back. Di\ ide the space on the l)reast line In-twcen B and R 
making Ci. .\llow from (1 to II, \}^ inches. Then measure the space from B to H on the 
breast line and jjlace the same amount on the top line from .A to 1 and connect a line from 
I to II. Measure 1/6 of 34 inches amounting to 2/x inches from A to J and from J raise up 
to K with 1 inch. Draw a line from K against I to L and square a line from L to meet II 
\\hich will according to this action give the correct width of shoulder. Measure from 
C to M on the waist line 2 inches and connect with a line up to .A which will make the in- 
cHue of tlie back and conijiletc the entire back foundation. 

To continue with the front measure from V. to N and D to (), 1/6 of 34 inches and draw 
a line from N to ( ). Measure again 1/6 of 34 inches from () to P, 1' to li and P up to Q and 
connect a line from Q to T. Now measure the back shoulder from K to L and apply the same 
amount from Q to U and connect a line from U to N which will complete the front arm- 
hole line. When being as far as this measure half of l)ust measurement from T to V 
amounting to ISJ-^ inches according to ?>7 inches bu.st measurement and allow 3 inches for 
seams from \' to W. Now square a line down from W. X to Y. Add Jj inch for a seam in 
front of i\ and up to S. Then draw a line from S against W down to Z which completes this 
foundation to the edge of the front which is now ready for following up for any purpose for 
the various garments as shown for size 36 for the underwear line. I'or additional misses' sizes 
see table of proportions. 



S49 




T. ROSEIS^FELD'S SYSTKM ([ 






\ 



^ 




850 




THE PRACTICAL ^3ESIGIS^ER 





^'9 ^20 



^/S-^/6 ^34 - ^35 



The number under each cut gives the lesson numher. See lessons on the 
various pages in this volume. 



851 




THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



INDEX 
WOMEN'S AND MISSES' UNDERWEAR 




I'agi- 



Titif paKt lor Women's and Misses' L'ii<ierwiar 71^^ 

Problem of L'lulerwcar 790-791 

Proper Way ul' Taking Rise Measuremenl 792 

Proportional Measurements for Women's and Misses' Underwear 79.< 

Woman's I'irst I'oundation Lines 794-79.-' 

Woman's Second I'oundation Lines 790-797 

Woman's Corset Cover 798-799 

Woman's Tight-l'itting Corset Cover 800-801 

Woman's Brassiere 802-803 

Woman's Camisole 804-80:> 

Woman's Chemise 806-8(17 

Woman's F.nvelope Chemise 808-809 

Woman's One-piece Night down 810-81 1 

Woman's Xight Gown with ^'oke 812-813 

Woman's Princess Slip 814-815 

Woman's Bloomers or Knickerbockers, j'ront Part 816-817 

Woman's Bloomers or Knickerbockers, Back Part 816-81/ 

Woman's Drawers, Front Part ■ 818-819 

Woman's Drawers, Back Part 818-819 

Woman's Pantaloon Pajamas. Front Part 820-821 

Woman's Pantaloon Pajamas, Back I'art 

Woman's ( )ne-piece or Circular Drawers 

Woman's ICnvelope Drawers 

Woman's One-piece Pajamas, Kimono Style, IVont Part 824-82.1 

•vV Oman's One-piece Pajamas, Kimono Style, Back Part 826-827 

Woman's Combination Chemise, Back I'art 828-829 

Woman's Combination Chemise, Front Part 828-829 

Woman's Step-in Chemise 

Woman's One-piece Step-in 

The Study of the Stout Form 

Proportional Stout Measurements for Women 

Woman's Tight-fitting Drawers, Front Part 

Woman's Tight-fitting Drawers. Back Part 

Woman's Kimono Fflfect Foundation 

Woman's Pajama Blouse 

Woman's Standing Collar 

Woman's Flat Collar 

Woman's One-piece Sleeve on Top of Armhole 9A2-843^ 

■ Woman's Two-piece or Four Gore Petticoat 844-845 

Woman's Five Gore Petticoat 

Misses' I'oundation Outline 

Stvlc Illustrations 



820-821 
822 
823 



830-831 

8.W-831 

832 

833 

834-835 

834-835 

.836-837 

838-839 

840 

841 



846-847 

848-849 

850 




^^^y^jjzEi^ 



Jnfucnmjjts 



^JSrglxZgXajr ^glJ^Zqxi ^Tnrj^ 




GRADING 



FOR 



Women's and Misses 
UNDERWEAR 



STANDARl) PFU)PORTIONAL MEASL RRMENTS FOR WOMEN'S SIZFS 


Size Bust 


Waist 


Hip 


Back Waist 
Depth length 


Sleeve 
Length 


Collar 


Width 
of Back 


Outside 
Length Rise 


34 37 


24 


42 


6;8 15^ 


1734 


13>^ 


7 


41 1134 


36 39 


25 


43 


7 15H 


18 


14 


7yi 


41K 12 


38 41 


26 


44 


7yi ISH 


18K 


14H 


7H 


»i 1. 


40 43 


27 


45 


7'A 15K 


ISji 


15 


7H 


>t II 


42 45 


283^ 


46 


7H 15>8 


18K 


15H 


8 


>> II 


44 46 


30 


47 


7J^ 16 


19 


16 


8H 


<t It 


STANDARD PROPORTIONAL MEASUREMENTS FOR MISSES' SIZES 


Size Breast 


Bust 


\^'aisl 


Back Waist 
Hip Depth Length 


Sleeve 
Length 


Width 
o( Back 


Collar 


Outside 

Length Rise 


14 32 


35 


22 


39 eyi i4?4 


173^ 


6^4 


12>^ 


40 11>^ 


16 34 


37 


23 


40 6H 15 


17H 


7 


13 


40.'^ UK 


18 36 


39 


24 


41 7 15'; 


IS 


7>^ 


13K 


1 



NOTE these are Standard Measurements. Stylish Measurements are published yearly 
jrhich are given by the Author to book owners free of charge. 



854 




THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 




PROBLEM OF GRADING FOR WOMEN'S AND MISSES' UNDERWEAR 



In order to begin the grading fur women's and misses' underwear, we are tu under- 
stand that the model size for women's sizes is size 36 and the model size for misses is size 
16. To ijrade the \arious lar,t;er or smaller si'.es for each and e\ery branch, it would he nec- 
essary to maUe perfect our first pattern, wh.ich is size 36 for women and size 16 for misses 
in such nanncr that it will .L;i\e full satisfietion to the designer in its style and lit. 

It should therefore be understood that the model pattern is to be jjerfect before ; j 
giadinsf is be,s>;un. To be clear with ijradingf. it is very important to remember that propor- 
tional measurements of such model size and also of the various sizes which we are to 5i;radc 
from such model pattern. For instance, if wl- are to grade a set of patterns for women's 
sizres for which the model size pattern is 36, we are to be fully acquainted with the measure- 
ments of a size 34 which is the first size below size 36, and also of the various larger sizes, 
such as sivces 31^. 40, 42 and 44. In doing this correctly it would be necessary to note the in- 
crease in back depth between e\ery size. 



At the same time, remember that the back depth and waist length are an increase 
in length, and in addition to the same we are to remember the increase of the width ])ro- 
portions between sizes, such as breast, bust waist and hip measurements. It is al'-o nec- 
essary to know that to grade the camisole th: difterence between breast or bust measure- 
ments, which, as a rule, differs with 2 inches all around, or 1 inch half way. For corset 
covers and brassieres it is necessary to note the ditTerence between brease, bust and waist 
measurements only. When grading, chemise night-gowns and any other long garments, in 
addition we have to note the difference in hip measurements. When grading such garments 
which are below the waist, such as bloomer;, drawers and pajamas we are to grade them 
according to the waist and his measurements only. For grading entirely tight-fitting 
drawers we additionally add measurements o^ knee, calf and ankle whereby the entire un- 
derwear line can be full and practically grade! for which the figure on the opposite page 
illustrates the entire set of measurements for ilie imderwear line. 



791 




I. ROSENFELD'S SYSTEM 



=^ ' 



4. 



a 



a 







\j 




792 




THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 









THE PROPER WAY OF TAKING RISE MEASUREMENT. 

In order to make clear how to obtain the rise measurement for women's or misses' 
underwear watch the above diagram which gives the position how such measurement 
can be taken. Have a proportional live model seated on a flat surface on a chair or 
table in an upright position and take the measurement from the hollow of waist which 
is illustrated on the above diagram at number 1 and take the measui'ement down to the 
flat surface of the chair or table which is illustrated by number 2. According to this in- 
sti'uction we obtain 12 inches for ri^e measurement for a person of normal 
height and medium hip measurement, such as 5 feet 6 inches. At the same time, it is 
necessary to know that this normal rise measuiement will be only practical for close- 
fitting garments. Should we want to build garments for more comfortable wear, in such 
case, there should be an additional allowance of 6 inches to these 12 inches and we 
shall use 18 inches for a full length rise measurement. 

In order to obtain the additional measurements which may be used in connection 
with the rise measurement continue with the outside length by taking a straight outside 
length from the hollow of waist down straight to the knee which will give for the average 
length 26 inches for a person of normal height. See table of propoitions on the next 
page. . 



793 




I. ROSENFELD'S SYSTEM 




Proportional Measurements 



FOR 



Women's and Misses' 
UNDERWEAR 



STANDARD PROPORTIONAL MEASUREMENTS FOR WOMEN'S SIZFS 



Size Bust Waist Hip 


Back Waist Sleeve 
Depth Length Length Collar 


Width 
ol Back 


Outside 

Length Rise 


34 37 24 42 


6-s ISH 17'; U'A 


7 


41 IL'4 


36 39 25 ^ 43 


7 15H 18 14 


7H 


41K 12 


38 41 26 44 


7H ISH 18>< 14^ 


7M 


ft II 


40 43 27 45 


7K 15K 18K 15 


7^A 


tJ f> 


42 45 28H 46 


7H ISVs 18-H 155^ 


8 


)» ft 


44 46 30 47 


7y2 16 19 16 


8'/, 


f f *f 


ST\ND\RI) PROPORTIONAL MEASUREMENTS FOR MISSES' SIZES 


Size Breast Bust Waist 


Back Waist Sleeve Width 
Hip Depth Length Length of Back 


Collar 


Outside 

Length Rise 


14 32 35 22 


39 eVi Wi 17K 6;'4 


12K 


40 UK 


16 34 37 23 


40 6M 15 17K 7 


13 


40K UK 


18 36 39 24 


41 7 15|< 18 7H 


13H 


i» it 



NOTE these are Standard Measurements. Stylish Measurements are published yearly 
which are given by the Author to book owners free of charge. 



794 




TPIE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 




WOMAN'S FIRST FOUNDATION LINES, 



LESSON NO. 400 



I shall now commence to explain the diai'ting of a roinulatioii lor a woman's size 36 
anrl to succeed in drafting, the student has to remember every step which is niiide at the 
beginning, as the beginning lines according to this system ai-e always to be repeated for 
each and every garment. It shall therefore be understood that this system is based on 
the most simplified method because the very first foundation linesi are to be used for all 
the continuous lessons. The foundation lines shown in the first lesson are covering the 
space of the body from the neck down to the natural waist length and it therefore con- 
sists of 3 lines, which are called top line, breast line and waist line and to begin use the 
following standard measurements foi' size 36. 

Back depth 7 inches 

Natural wai.st length in back IS'-- inches 

All around chest oi' size 36 inches 

All around bust 39 inches 

All around waist 25 inches 



Now begin (o draft, draw a square line fiom A to R and A to C and remember that 
the line from A to R is the ton line and from A to C is the center back line to which you 
have to stand next in order to have the draft in front of you in the proper manner. Now 
measure from A to B, 7 inches back depth and from A to C, 15 'b inches natural waist 
length. Draw a line across from B to W and C to X. After these 'lines are crossed, 
measure from A to D, B to E and C to F, 1—3 of size or 12 inches for size 36 and draw 
a line from D, h to F. 

To produce the width of back, take half of B to E. which makes (i and allow from G 
to H, 1 'i inches and then measure the space between B to H and place the same from A 
to I and draw ,a line from I to H. Now begin the back neck; from A to J measure Vo 
of size or 3 inches for size 36 and from J to K I'aiso up 1 inch and from K di'aw a line 
out against I to L. 

In producing the l.;\tk .shoultiev, di aw a line from K against I to L. This space 
shall be 6 inches for size 36 !jut in order that this space or width of shouids'- shall come 
out naturally without memorizinj: the width of shoulder for each and every size, a 
square ruler shall be applied to the line from K to L to meet H and it will prove or bring 
the original width of shoulder foi' every size systematically. 

Now make the ink line for the center back ; make from C to M, 2 inches and draw 
a line from M up to A and remember that this space between C to M is always 2 inches 
for all women'.c; sizes. Before going any further, remember the name of each cross line 
made at A, B and C. The line from A to R is called the top line, the line from B to W 
is the breast line and the line from C to X is the waist line.' If there are any other 
crossed lines, to be produced foi' the continuous lessons, each additional line will have 
the proper name of its practical use. This completes this lesson. 

Take notice that this foundation and all further lessons produced on this founda- 
tion, have all necessary seams allowed. 



795 




I. ROSEIN^FELD'S SYSTEM 





796 




THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 




WOMAN'S SECOND FOUNDATION LINES 



LESSON NO. 401. 



To besin this lesson, we need to reuiember the entire foundation of the first lesson, 
therefore now prepare the entire first lesson and continue as follows: From E to N and 
from D to O is 1—6 of size or 3 inches for size 36 and draw a line up from N to 0. When 
making this step, it shall be remembered tl^at we are preparing the outline for the front 
part. Now measure again from to P and from P to Q also 1—6 of size or 3 inches for 
size 36. It shall be understood that we need to draw a line up from P to Q and as soon 
as the line is drawn up to Q, draw a line from Q to the ink line at the back depth, 
which makes T and when this line is complete, measure the width of back shoulder 
from K to L and place the same 1'rom Q to U, which makes the front shoulder and then 
draw a line from U to N, which makes the front armhole. 

Now prepare the front neck, measure from P to R. 1—6 of size or, 3 inches and 
allow a Vs inch for seam. Then raise up a line of '4 of an inch to S for the high neck 
in front. 

Now measure the bust; measure from T to V half of bust measiu'ement. For in- 
sHance, this bust measurement amounts to 89 inches therefore, take half of this 
amount, 19'= inches fiom T to V and from V to W allow 3 inches for seams and draw a 
squai-e line dowit from W to X and Y. When this line is complete, finish the entire 
edge of the front by drawing a straight line fi'om S against W down to Z. 



When being this far advanced with this foundation, it shall be undei'stood that we 
are about ready with this foundation; which will be completed in the next lesson for use. 
The next lesson will finish this foundation into a corset covei'. 



797 




T. ROSKlSrFKI.D'S SYSTEIM 





798 




THE PRACTICAL DKSIGNER 




WOMAN'S CORSET COVER— SIZE 3G 



Lesson No. 402 



In order to complete this lesson iiit>j a corset cmvit 'Iraw all f'HUKlati')!! 
til tlif Inst and seccnul k'ssons and continue as folhjws: 



tiH'S ace 



ordiiii 



To begin divide the sitace e(|iially of the entire arnihuie l)et\\een II and X inakiii.t; -)• and 
draw a line down from 4 to 2. Then taUe uiu from each side uf 2. ^4 of an inch and from 
each side of 4 which is at the breast line "^ inch to E and 5. and connect 5 to 2 with a cur\ ed 
line which will make the side seam of the hack and connect F. to 2 with a curved line which 
makis the side seam of the front. .\ccordini^- t.i iliis in-truclion we will obtain a full bottom 
for this corset co\ er ; but should it be necessuy to make a more close fitted waist, take out 
al llu- waist lini- from each side of 2 t(^ 1 and .\ 1 inch and connect 1 to 5 and ,i to \\. 

Now make the opening for neck by d.-\idm_i^ at the center liack from A to 1'. makins;- 
1.1 which will make the deeimess of the l)ack a;-cordin.<>- to half of the back de])th making it 
3' J inches deep. Then take the shoulder widlh from L to 12 which is 2 inches and curve 
from 12 to 13. Now measure the same 2 inches from C to 11 and divide equally the s])ace at 
the front cdgfe from .S to \\" making- 8. F.xtend from S to 10, .i inches for fullness and curve 
frinn 11 towards S out to 10. Now connect 10 to 7 with a straight line which makes the 
edge of the front. I'rom .\ to '/. allow 1 inch and connect a line from ,i tow arils 7. to 6 and 
curve up from '/. to 7 with a 'j inch, as shown on the diagram. Then allow 1 inch for but- 
ton-stand to the edge of the front from 10 down to 7. Now make all curves as shown on the 
diagr.'un. .\liow at 1 and 3, 'j inch at the bottom of waist, t nr\e the armhole at the back 
from L to .S and at the front from I" to E. 

To cut out the corset cover follow the heavy lines of front and back. If a very full back 
is wanted follow the doited line from 13 to C and then cut on the heavy marks from 13 
to 12 to L and .t down t(j 1 and from 1 to M and C. The front is cut out from L" towards 
E down to 3 and from 3 out to Z and 7 and tlien from 1 1 towards S to 10 and from 10 down 
to 7. If a much lower front opening is wanted follow the trace line shown at 9 at the front 
edge between S and W and curve in the same manner as the original line at S with the 
exce])tion that this is about 2 inches below tlie first opening curve. Note that when this 
pattern is cut out according to these instructions the pattern has seams allowed and is ready 
to be cut from any kind of material. This ])attern has normal seams of 3/S of an inch for a 
half seam or 'ii of an inch for a full seam. 



To make the ripple for the corset cover watch the diagram below the corset cover on the 
opposite page, which illustrates the same. Draw a straight line from 1 to 2 measuring half 
of the waist measurement which is about 12jj inches for 25 inches waist. Divide ccjually 
between 1 and 2 making 3 and measure from 3 to 4, 3 inches and from 4 to 5 also 3 inches. 
Then curve from 2 towards 4 up to 1 and draw a line from 1 to 5 and 2 to 5. Now square 
a line out from 1 to 6 and 2 to 7 and measm-e from 2 to 7, 3 inches and 1 to 6 al.so 3 inches 
and make a curve from 7 towards 5 to 6 which will complete the ri|)ple in a 3-inch width 
w ith all seams allowed. 



799 




T. ROSENFELD'S SYSTEM 





800 




THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 




WOMAN'S TIGHT-FITTING CORSET COVER— SIZE 36 



Lesson No. 403 



To make the tight-fitting corset cover make the usual foundation lines and divide the 
arnihole Ijetw.evn 1 and (i niakin.n N. Draw a line down I'runi X to 7 which is at the liack 
arniholc space. Take out from each side of X. to r< and 6. -^4 of an inch and from each 
side of 7 to I'", and 10. 2 inches. Xow shorten the waist len^'th from 1". to ') and 10 to 4 
with a j j inch all the way out to 8 and D. 

Now make the dart in front hy dividini;' the chest from F to R making- S. .\lIou- 
from \' to X ;< I of an inch and draw a line from R to X down to 14. 'i'hcn allow from 
\' to Y, 2 inches for a long >vaist effect and draw a line from 9 against Y to 14. Take the 
space from R to S and place same amount from 14 to Z and draw a straight line from S 
to Z and divide the space between S and Z- making 1 which makes the height of dart. Now 
take out from Z to 2, 1 inch and from Z to 3, 2 inches. Measure the space from 1 to 2 
and apply the same length from 1 to 15 and connect 15 to 9 which will complete the 
entire dart and hottom for the tight-fitting corset cover. 

Now finish the ujiper part of the front edge in a tight-litting eff t-ct from W to R 
and divide the space hetween W to R which makes 16 for a medium neck opening in 
front. Divide ecpially the shoulder of the front and take half from () to U making 17. 
Draw a i)arallel line from 17 to IS and square a line across from 16 to IS which will give 
according to the trace lines shown on the diagram a square opening. If a curved effect is 
desired make a curve from 17 to 16 as shown on the front of the diagram. To make the 
o])ening at thi? hack divide the shoulders at the hack equally hetween L and M making 
12 and square a line down from 12 to l.v Divide equally the back depth space from A 
to I'l making 11. Sc|uare a line from 11 to 13 which will gi\e a square cut- out at the back. 
If a round effect is wanted, curve as shown from 11 to 12. 



For button-stand in front allow 1 inch at the front edge from 16 down to 14. Other- 
wise, this tight-fitting corset cover is complete with all necessary seams allow'cd. 



801 




T. ROSENFELD'S SYSTEM 





802 



I 




THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 




WOMAN'S BRASSIERE— SIZE 36 



Lesson No. 404 



In order to make the brassiere prepare the usual touudation lines and di\ide the side 
seams as explained for tlie ti.q;ht-tittin.i^: corset cover. I'rei)are the dart in front in the same 
manner and then act as follows: As tliis S'^''""^'"t is to lie strictly tii>iu-littins divide the 
bottom of the back from 1) tc/ 4 making- 9 and from 9 to 19 take out a ' /> inch. Divide 
equally the liack shoulder frtjm L to M makinj;- 10 and connect 10 to 19. Connect with a 
trifle curved line 9 lost to the lireast line which will, in this maimer, produce the closc- 
fittiny back for the brassiere. 

To make the front part divide the front shoulder from () to U making 11 and connect 
11 t(j 1. which is at the height of dart, with a straight line. In order to get the proper 
close-fitting bust cfTcct liegin to curve on the straight line from about the breast line lost 
to tlie waist line to ,5. Thcrelore. it should be understood that the straight line continues 
for the outside jiart of the front to 2. To belter understand this it is to begin at 11 passing 
15 d(jwn to 2. It should be understood that this les.son is followed according to the lesson 
before this. 




To allow for button-stand in front allow 1 inch all the way through the edge of the 
fnVit from 14 to XX. shown by the dotted lines. To cut out this pattern remember that this 
pattern is cut out on the same principle as the corset cover or any other garment with the 
exception that there is positively no need for a seam at the center back. Therefore, deduct 
•VS of an inch for a seam from 12 to D. Note that the small dart which is between 9 
and 19 lost to the breast line is to be taken out. When the ])attern is cut out we are 
to allow seams all the way through from 9 and 19 up to 10 and 3/S of an inch is the 
proper amount to allow at each side. Also note that the front dart between 2 and 3 
lost all the way through up to the breast line is to be thrown out and 3/S of an inch 
for seams arc to be allowed from 11 all the way down to 2 and 3 at both parts of the ]iattern 
w'hich are the inner and the outside jiarts of the front. 



803 




T. ROSEIN^FELD'S SYSTEM 





804 




THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 





WOMAN'S CAMISOLE— SIZE 36 



Lesson No. 405 



To produce the camisole <ystcni;itic;illy and practically wliicli may sa\c a s^reat deal of 
material and laKur make use of the first 2 foundations up to the bust which is shown on 
the opposite diagram from 2 to 22. When the line of the front edjje is drawn from 19 
asjjainst 22 down to 25 measure the space at the liottoni of the front from 24 to 25 and 
extend the same amount at the breast line from 22 to 26 and connect a line from 26 to 
25. Note that the lengthenini;: of waist at the l)Ottom between 23 and 24 is 1 inch. 

To finish the bottom entirely simply connect a straifjj^ht line from the bottom of the 
center back from 3 against 24 out to 25 and curve up. as shown on tlie diagram, about 
% of an inch at 25 to give a trifle roundness at the bottom of the front when the garment 
is connected. Now note the heavy line at the breast line including the bottom, center l)ack 
and center front which clearly shows that in order to make the camisole in one piece, 
all we need is the space between breast and waist line including all the fullness at the center 
back and the special allowance which is made at the front between 22 and 26 lost to 25. 

To complete this one-piece camisole foundation allow 1 inch for button-stand from 26 
down to 25 in the same manner as shown for the brassiere. Should it be necessary to 
attach upper yoke parts which, as a rule, is a style, follow the suggestion gi\en according 
to the trace line for a \' yoke effect. Divide each shoulder at the front and back, for 
instance, the back shoulder divide between 11 and 12 making 27 and follow according to 
the dotted line from 27 to 2 and 27 to S. The front shoulder dixide between 17 and 30 
making 28 and draw a dotted line from 28 to 14 and 28 to 16. Should we want a shoulder 
strip, which may be made of ribbon or lace, follow the shoulder and armhole lines, which 
is about l_'/2 inches in width which is shown at the back from 12 to 9 which is followed 
parallel according to the trace line down to the breast line. For the front also follow the 
front armhole line according to the same width which is from 30 to 31 parallel down to the 
breast line as illustrated by the dotted lines. 

It should therefore be understood that the proper adding is a matter of taste and style 
and the lower part is the original foundation of the camisole as described before with all 
the necessary seams allowed. 



805 




T. ROSENFELD'S SYSTEM 








806 




THE PRACTICAL DESIGINfER 




WOMAN'S CHEMISE— SIZE 36 



Lesson No. 406 



In order to begin the chemise make use ol the ujiiier liiuiulntiDii lines as ex])lained 
in tlic first two lessons as far as the bust line which is on the opposite diaiL^'ram linished 
to the front cdg'e at •' and square a straight line down from '* towards 10. 11 and 12 and 
eontinue as f()l](jws: Measure from 3 to 4, 6 inches for hip line and cross ;i line from 4 
to 11. .\'ow measure 36 inches fr(jm 1 to 5 which is the no)-mal lenj>-th fur a chemise 
and diaw a line across from .^ to 12. 

Now make the center back; measure in at the center back and waist line 
from 3 to 3.T, 'j of an inch and draw a straight line up from 35 to 1 and from 35 against 
4 down to 7, which will cfjuijilete the proper shape of a chemise. 

Now prepare the armhole. T^ivide equally the space of the arnihole Vietwccn 17 and 
22 making 27 and draw a straight line down from 27 towards 2< to 29. Take nut at the 
waist line from each side of 2S to 30 and 31, ]/> inch each and extend at each side of 29 
at the hip line to 14 and 32 also a J/, inch. Then connect lines from 27 to 30 and from 30 
a'^ainst 14 down to 33 which will complete the side seam of the back. Draw a line from 
27 to 31 down against 32 to 34 will comj^lete the side scam of the front. Now finish the 
armhole lower with 1 inch from 27 to 3S and curve the bael< armhnlc fiom 21 to 3S and 
the front armhole from 25 to 3S. 



Now make the opening cut-out for normal use as follows: Raise up at the center back 
at the breast line from 2 to X. 1 inch, and measure the shoulder stri]) at the back from 
21 to .^9, 2 inches, and curve as shown on the diagram from .^9 to X. Measure the front 
shoulder strip from 25 to 40 and curve from 40 towards 26 to 9. This will complete 
the chemise with all necessary scams allowed, for size 36. or which may be followed 
ui) to any other size according to the tabic of proportions given in the front pages. 



807 




T. ROSEiSTFELD'S SYSTEM 

X/7 





808 




THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 




WOMAN'S ENVELOPE CHEMISE— SIZE 36 



Lesson No. 407 



In order to begin the envelope chemise draw tlic upinr foundation lines as explained 
in the lirst two lessons as far as the bust line which is un the uppusite diai;rani hnished 
to the front edge at 9 and square a straight line down from 9 towards 10, 11 and 12 and 
continue as follows: Measure from 3 to 4, 6 inches for liip line and cross a line from 4 
to 11. Now measure 36 inches from 1 to 5 which is the normal length fur a chemise 
and draw a line across from 5 to 12. Then lengthen the center l)ack line from 5 to 6 with 
;4 of 36 inches amounting lo 9 inches and square a short line of about 3 inches out from 
6 towards 7. Now make the center back; measure in at the center back and waist line 
from 3 to 35, •V4 of an inch and draw a straight line up from 35 to 1 and from 35 ag;iinst 
4 down to 7. wliich will complete tlie proper shape of an en\e]o])e chemise. 

Now prepare the armhole. Divide equally the space of the armhole Iietween 17 and 
22 making 27 and draw a straight line down from 27 towards 2S to 29. Take out at the 
waist line from each side of 28 to 30 and 31. lA inch each and extend at each side of 29 
at tlie iiip line to 14 and 32 also a J 1. inch. Tlicn connect lines from 27 to .iO ;ind from 30 
against 14 down to 33 which will complete the side scam of tlie back. Draw a line from 
27 to 31 down against ?i2 to 34 which will com])letc the side seam of the front. .Shorten 
each side seam at M and 34 about y^ of an inch each and connect i?) with a simihir curve, as 
shown on the diagram, to 6 wliich will complete the bottom of the liack part. 

To finish the front measure from 12 to 36 the same space as for tlie bottom of the 
t ack from 6 to 7 which is 3 inches and then raise up from 36 to ?)7 , 1 inch, and connect 
?i7 to 34 wliich will comjilete tlie bottom part of this enveloiie chemise. Now finish the 
armhole lower with 1 inch from 27 to 3.'^ and curve the back armhole from 21 to .iS and 
the front armhole from 25 to 38. 

Now make the opening cut-out for normal use as follows: Raise \\\) at the center back 
It the breast line from 2 to X, 1, inch, and measure the shoulder strip at the back from 
21 to 39. 2 inches, and curve as shown on the diagram from 39 to X. Measure the front 
shoulder strip from 25 to 40 and curve from 40 towards 26 to 9. This will comjiletc 
the envelope chemise with all necessary scams allowed, for size 36. or which may be 
followed up to any other size according to the table of proportions given in the front 
pages. 



809 




T. ROSEISTFELDS SYSTEM 

:s/7 





810 




THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 




WOMAN'S ONE-PIECE NIGHT GOWN— SIZE 36 



Lesson No. 408 



To begin the one-piece night-gown draw tlio fouiulatimi lines accordinc;- to the first and 
second lessons and measure from 3 to 26. 6 inches for hi]) line, and ch-a\v a line across from 
26 to 23. Then nieasm-e the full Icnstli of the garment wliich is ahout 60 inches includino; 
a small hem and measure, therefore, from 1 to 27. 60 inches for the full length and draw a 
line from 27 to 2S. Now continue as follows: 

To continue di\ide equall\- the armhole sjiacc as shown on the opjiosite diagram be- 
tween S and 14 niakino- .^0. IC.xtend at the hij) line from 31 to 29. 1 inch and draw a line 
from .iO against 2'' down to the bottom to .i2. Raise up from 32 to 3.^. 1 inch and curve from 
33 lost to 27 which will tiinish the side seam and bottom of the back. 

Now make the front side seam. Measure 1/3 of hi]i on the hip line from 23 to 33 
amounting to 14 3/S inches according to 43 inches hip and then connect a line from 30 
against Ti'S d(jwn to 34. Raise U]) at 34 also 1 inch the same as the liack and aild al the bottom 
of the front from 28 to 36, -Xi of an inch and connect with a cnrxnl line fron' 34 to 3() which 
will fuiish the side seam and the bottom of the front. 



Finish the edge of the front by drawing a straight line down from l'» .against 21 down to 
36. fur\e the armhole as usual by cur\ ing the back armhole from 12 to 30 and the front 
armhole from 25 against 5 to .lO. .\s no scam is wanted at the center back deduct ,VS of 
an inch from 1 down to 27. This will comi)lete the one-])iece night-gown. See next lesson 
for the night-gown with a yoke. 



811 




1. ROSK]NrFF.T^D\S SYSTF.M 

^/7 




...J 




812 




THE PRACTICAT^ DESIGNER 




WOMAN'S NIGHT-GOWN WITH YOKE— SIZE 36 



Lesson No. 409 



In order to make the nijjlit-f^own with a yoke make the conijilete draft of the onc-picre 
nij4ht-go\vii and act as follows: Draw a line across 1'/. inches above the l)reast line a- 
shown at 2 at the center l)ack. Then draw a .line across from the arnihulc oiil Ironi 2 to 
37 and allow 2 inches iiarallel all the way down to .iS which will increase the fullness for 
the back. 

Now cut the line across the same way 1 inch ahove the breast line at the front and 
extend from 21 to .>'', .i inches for fullness at the front. Xow extend 1 inch for button-stand 
at the front part which is from IS to 41 down to 42. Remember we are to allow special scams 
of 3/8 of an inch at the split of the yoke between the upjier and lower parts of the front 
and back. Note that the allowance which is made for fullness at the front and back is to be 
o-athcred in and then followed tojjethcr with the npiier or yoke part. 



Should a low neck be wanted at the neck for this or the one-piece nijifht-sown follow 
the curves which are shown according: to the dotted lines at the back i)art which is shown 
at 9 towards the center back and at the front from 15 towards 42. which may be chansjcd 
to any opcninsi: wanted, from time to time. 



813 




I. ROSKNFKLD'S SYSTEM 

\\/7 





814 




THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 





WOMAN'S PRINCESS SLIP— SIZE 36 



Lesson No. 410 



To begin the princess slip draw the usiia 
C to D. 6 inches and crusi a line fruiii D to 
the waist line which is from C to 15, 28 inche 
which an additional bottom ripple of 12 inchc 
is wanted it shall he 40 inciies made Ijctwce 
the bottom line. Measure from C" to 12, 2 in 
a line from 12 up to A and from 12 against 1 
shoulder from M to N ])reparing for the sea 
L to N making 26. Then measure from 12 t 
36 and from 11 to 18, 4 inches and draw a li 
Take out from 16 to 19, -j^ of an inch and fro 
line from 19 towards 17 down to 20 and fro 
straight line on the breast line. 



1 foundation lines. Measure the hip line from 
I-'.. Then measure for the bottom line from 
s which will make a short length of a skirt to 
■- may be connected. If a full lengtii skirt effect 
n C and 15. Cross a line from 15 to 13 for 
dies and from U t<j 11. l^j inches and connect 
1 down to 15. .\llow -j^i of an inch to the 
m which crosses the shoulder half way from 
o 16, 1,''6 of size amounting to 3 inches for size 
ne from 16 to 26 and 16 towards 18 down to 21. 
m 18 to 17 add 04 of an inch. Connect a straight 
ni 19 make a curved line up to 26 to meet the 



Now take out at the side seam from G to 9 and K to 5, ■- j of an inch and on the 
waist line from 8 to 10, J,i inch and connect from 9 to 10 and from 10 against I", down 
to 25 whicli will complete the side seam of the back part. 

To begin the front part take out J^ inch from 4 to 3 on -the waist line and connect 
with a line from 3 up to (i and 3 against 5 down to 22. Then divide the chest between 
l'" and Y making X on the breast line. Measure the sjiace between Y and X which is about 
4; J inches for size 36 and measure the same amount with y^ of an inch added which 
amounts to 4:'4 inches from 7 to 30 on the waist lino and draw a straight line from X 
towards 30 down to 29 which will make thj dart of the front. Note tliat the space be- 
tween 6 and 7 is •}i of an inch and square a straight line from Y up to 23 and from Y to 7 
down to 14. From 13 to 14 is 1 inch. 

Now complete the dart. Divide the space between X and 30 for the height of bust 
making 28. Divide the front shoulder between U and W making 27. Then allow 3/8 of 
an inch to each side of 36 and 3i7. Connect a line from 36 to 28 and draw a straight 
line from ?i7 towards 38 with the line parallel which is drawn from 36 to 28 and fill in 
the brake with a curve from 36 towards 28 to 30. Now curve the inner part of tlie 
front which has the most part of the bust from 37 towards 38 down to 28 and 31. Draw a 
straight line from 30 to 32 whicIi will complete the dart at the front which will lu'ing the 
proper bust effect. 

To make the proper opening for the jirincess slip raise uj) from Y to 23, 2 inches and 
square a line from 23 to 24 amounting to 4 inches and draw a straight line up towards 
37 as shown by the dotted line, if a round opening is wanted follow the dotted curved line 
from 27 to 23. 'I'he same space may be used at the liack I)y measuring from L to AB as the 
space measures from \\' to 37. Then curve as shown by the dotted lines from AB to AC. 
.AC is half the space between A and B at the center back. Note that this garment is cut 
with all necessary seams allowed, and is cut with a center seam in back which is proper 
for this kind of fitting. 



815 




T. ROSENFELD'S SYSTEM 

^/7 





816 




THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 




WOMAN'S BLOOMERS OR KNICKERBOCKERS, FRONT PART— SIZE 36 

Lesson No. 411 

In order to begin the front part of the 1) Isomers use measurements specially dcsif^iicil 
tor this pui-pose which are partly explained in the front pages and measurements for this 
arc as follows; 



Waist 25 inches 

Hip 43 inches 

To begin to draft watch the diagram on 
K and A to C. Measure from A to B, 12 in 
26 inches outside length and draw a line acr 
A to R waist line ; from B to I hipline and f 
according to the hip measurement and measu 
amounting to 10-J4 inches. I'rom H to I in 
.^Sg inches and draw a line up from 1 1 to R. 
mcnt amounting to 6'-4 inches, according to 2 
for seams and fullness. l">om 1' to Q raise u 
inch and connect a line from X to Q. Alio 
malce a side hip cur\e from O to U down t 

Finish the front curve part by measuri 
amount from H. to J. Then connect a line fro 
from M to N mark y^ inch and cur\c from J, N 
seam take Yi inch from I to \' and draw a str 
shown on the diagram from I to T, which wi 
bloomers.. See next lesson for the back par 



Rise 12 inches 

(Jutside Length 2C inches 

the opposite page and draw lines from A to 
dies for rise measurement and from .\ to C. 
OSS from B to I and C to T. Call the line from 
rom C to T knee line. Then continue drafting 
re from R to \\ half of hip measurement 
easure 1-6 of hip measurement amounting to 
Measure from R to ( ) ]/!\ of waist mcasure- 
5 inches waist. From () to 1' allow 2 inches 
p a lA inch and from R to X lower with a y'i 
w from B to U, l^-^ inches for fullness ."•id 
o the knee line to C, as shown on the diagram. 

ng the space from 1 1 to 1 and raise the same 
m J to I and divide ecjually, making M and 
to I. In order to finish properly the inside 
aight line down from \' to 'i and curve as 
11 complete the entire front part of the 
t. _ 



BACK PART— SIZE 36 



Lesson No 412 



To begin the back part of the bloomers have the complete draft or pattern of the 
front part, as shown on the diagram on the opposite page, and then continue as follows : 

To begin to draft draw the waist line out from R and L to A and P and measure 
from L to A J4 of waist measurement amounting to 6^ inches, according to 25 inches waist 
and from A to P allow 3 inches for fullness or darts. Then allow from B to U also 3 inches 
for fullness and at tlie bottom from 1 to 2 allow 1^ inches. 

Now finish the back crutch part. Raise the hack from L to R with 3 inches and con- 
nect a straight line from R to j, where the curve of the front crutch begins and curve 
from K to I and I cnit to M. I'rom I to H is 1-12 of hip measurement and from II to M 
is 1 inch allowed for scams which altogether amounts to from 1 and M, 2?s inches allowed 
for the under part. Then allow from 3 to 4, 1 '/< inches for scams and fullness. This will 
complete the back part of the bloomers with gathers around the waist and knee. 

If a fitted v/aist is wanted make a dart on top of the I)ack part as shown as follows: 
I)i\ide from P Xo R, making () and draw a Hue down from () to T, which is 4,'S inches. 
Take out from each side of O to V and \V, 1 inch and make curves from V to T and W 
to T. This will complete the bloomers with all scams allowed. 

If buttoning is wanted for bloomers at the front part make the ojiening for such but- 
toning at the front from' R to J. If buttoning is wanted at the side make the opening as 
descril)ed at the back side seam from P to U. If hack-hnttoning is wanted make the 
opening at the back from K to J. According to this method convenient opening for but- 
toning will be obtained. 



817 




I. ROSENFELDS SYSTEM 




[ 




4 3 



1 2 




BACK PART- 



FRONT PART 



818 




THE PRACTICAIL. DESIGNER 




WOMAN'S DRAWERS, FRONT PART— SIZE 36 

Lesson No. 413 

In order to begin the front part for woinaiTs drawers use uK-asurcnicnts specially 
dcsij^ncd for this purposi.', which arc as follows: 

Waist 25 inches Rise 18 inches 

Hip 43 inches Outside Length 26 inches 

To begin to draft watch diagram on the opposite page. Draw a line irum I to 4 and 
1 to 3. Measure from 1 to 2, IS inches rise. According to medium height the rise measure- 
ment is 12 inches. I'\)r drawers add 6 inches additional for a comfortable rise, making it 
IS inches. Tlun measiu-e from 1 to 3, 26 inches outside length which is taken at the side 
of the hip from the waist to the knee. Now draw a line across fnnn 2 to S and 3 to 15. 
Measure from 2 to 7. half of 43 inches hip amounting to 10-J4 inches and from 7 to 8 measure 
1-6 of hip measurement amounting to 3^ inches. 

To continue square a line uj) from 7 to 4 and measure from 4 to 10, ',4 of 25 inches hip 
measurement amounting to 6)4 inches and from 10 to 11 allow 2 inches. From 11 to 12 
raise up -ji of an inch and connect a line fr(nn 12 to 4. Now measure the space from 7 to 
S and place the same amount from 7 to 9 and connect a line from 9 to S. Cur\e from 9 
to S with a '/^-inch deeiniess, as shown on the diagram, which ciJinpletes the crutch of the 
front part. 

Now finish the inside seam of the front. Draw a straight line from 4 against S and 
draw a line down from 8 to 15 to the bottom line of the front, which will in this way 
complete the inside seam with all the fullness needed at the bottom. Now finish the out- 
side seam and hip of the front. A'leasure from 2 to 13 at the hip line 2^ inches and 
make a curve with a curved ruler from the waist point from 12 against 13 and continue 
straight down to the bottom to 14, which will complete the front part. Sec the next les- 
son for the back part. 



WOMAN'S DRAWERS. BACK PART— SIZE 36 



Lesson No. 414 



To begin the back part for drawers make the draft of the complete front part as shown 
on the opposite ])age and then contmue with the back as I'ollows: Dix'ide the space of the 
front from 2 to S on the hip line, making 16 and draw a straight line up from 16 towards 
19 up to 18. Measure from 19 to 18, 3 niches and draw a line up to 19 against 20 to 21. 
Measure from 19 to 20, ^ of waist measurement amounting to 6J4 inches according to 
25 inches waist. From 20 to 21 add 3 inches for seams and fullness and connect a line 
from 21 to 18. Then allow from 13 to 22 and 14 to 23, 3 inches and connect with a curved 
line from 21 to 22 and 23, which will finish the outside seam of the back part. 

Now connect a line for the back curve part from 18 to 9 and continue the curve 
according to the front crutch from 9 towards 8 out to 5. From 8 to 5 is 1-12 of hip meas- 
urement and 1 inch allowed for seams amounting altogether to 2;Vi inches. Draw a line 
from 4 against 5 down to 6. which will complete the inside scam of the back part which is 
connectablc to the inside seam of the front to 8 and 15, and which will complete the entire 
draft of front and back for woman's drawers. 

In order to cut out the front and back parts of this draft trace off each one according 
to the heavy lines as follows: To begin to cut or trace the front begin from 12 to 13 and 
14 across to 15 up to 8 and from 8 to 9 up to 4 and connect 4 to 12. This will cut out the 
front. To cut out the back part begin from 21 to 22 and 23 and from 23 across to 6 up to 
5; from 5 towards 8 and 9 up to 18 and from 18 connect to 21. In this wav the front and 
back will be entirely cut out, including the necessary seams. 

If buttoning is wanted at the side take half of the rise length between 20 and 22 at the 
I'ack part and between 12 and 13 at the front part, which measures full 18 inches and 
half of this amount is to be left open from the waist down, which will amount to 9 inches 
for buttoning if side buttoning is desired. If front or back buttoning is desired make the 
opening ^from the waist line 12 inches down, which will be sufficient and convenient sp.im 
for buttoning. 



819 




T. ROSENFELD'S SYSTEM 





This is the front and back of the two-piece c'rswers. See separate lessen for the one-pier c 
circular drawers. 



820 




THE PRACTICAL DES1GN1::K 



::=:=JJ 




WOMAN'S PANTALOON PAJAMAS, FRONT PART— Size 36 

Lesson No. 415 

In order to begin the iKUitaluuii pajamas i'dIIow the- uutlincs accurdini;- tn tlii' pnii- 
ciplr of tlic Ijluuincrs and the nicasiircinciits lor the same arc as lulluws : 



Waist 25 inches 

Hip 43 inches 

Rise 



( )utsi(le Length 41 inches 

liottom h"^ inches 

12 inches 



To begin to draft draw lines from A to K and A to D. Measure Irum A to B 12 
inches rise and from A to D 41 inches outside lensfth. Work the hip the same way on 
the hi]) line, ,' j of hip measurement from B to 11 and Imm 11 to 1 measure 1/6 of hip 
measurement. Raise up a straight line from 11 to K and measure 1/6 of hip from 11 to J 
and cross a line from J to X. ' Measure from K to (), y4 of waist measurement amount- 
ing to 6>4 inches according to 25 inches waist. From ( ) to P allow 2 inches for seams. 
Raise up from P tn O a y, inch and lower from K to R with J-^ inch and connect a line 
from K to (J. Then curve from Q to X down to B for hip curve. 

Now finish the lower part (jf the front. Divide the space er|ually hetweeii I', and 1 
making S. Then measure the space from P. to .S and place the same at the bottom line 
from b to W and draw a straight line from W towards .S u\) to L. Measure from \V 
to 3 at the bottom line % of bottom measurement which is IS inches, amounting to 
4'/. inches, brom I to G at the hi]) line measure 1 inch and connect G to 3, which makes 
the inside scam and connect with a curved line from 1 towards 1, which is about at the 
knee line. This will complete the front part with all seams allowcdj 



BACK PART 
Lesson No. 416 



To continue with the back part note diagram of the back. First complete the front 
part and then continue the back as follows: Raise the center line up from L to K and 
measure there 3 inches. Measure from L to .A. '4 of waist measurement amounting to 
6'4 inches and from .\ to P allow 3 inches for seams and gathers for the back part. Then 
connect a line from P to 1\. Connect a line from K to J for the back crutch part and 
continue with a curve from J towards I to H and M. The space from I to 11 is 1/12 of 
hill measurement and from 11 to M is 1 inch allowed for seams. Note that II and M is 
y, inch lower from the hip line. Then add from 1 to Y and 3 to F l',< inches and the 
same amount of 1J4 inches should be allowed from 4 to l'. and 2 to C. From B to U at 
the hip line allow 3 inches. Then curve, as shown on the diagram, the inside seam of 
the liack part from M towards Y to F and the outside seam of the back jiart connect from 
P to I' towards C to P.. Then connect with a straight line at the bottom 1" to 1~ which 
will complete the back part with fullness around the waist. 

If fitted pantaloon jiajamas are wanted around the waist take out the dart by divid- 
in"- eciually from P to K making O at the liack waist line. Draw a line down from O 
to'^T 4 inches and take out 1 inch from both sides of O to \' and W lost to T, as shown 
on the diagram, 'i'his will complete the back part of the pantaloon pajamas with all 
necessary seams allowed. 



821 




T. ROSENFELD'S SYSTEM 







-i>^ j> 



') 



^ 



BACK PART- 



FRONT PART 



822 




THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 





WOMAN'S ONE-PIECE OR CIRCULAR DRAWERS— SIZE 36 



Lesson No. 417 

To make the one-piece .,: circular drawers cvit out the front and back parts of the 
drawers explained before and then mark the front out, as shown on the opposite page, 
which is as follows : 

To begin, copy the front first from A, B, C, D to E and place the upper part of the 
hack part to the upper part of the front part, which makes the connection of the waist 
between the front and back parts at D and F, and at the bottom between the front and 
back, which is between E and G, allow 12 inches space. 

Then continue by copying the balance of the back part from F and H down towards 
J and I and from I to G. Then fill in the space at the waist brake l)y making an even 
circle curve from A towards K and H. The space of filling in from F and D to K shall 
be 2 inches and then make an eciual round curve for the bottom from C towards L out to 
I. Note then that the front inside seam, which is from B to C, is to be connected with 
the back inside seam, which is from J to I. According to this instruction we will have 
the complete one-piece or circular drawers with all the necessary seams allowed. 



S23 





T. ROSENFELD'S SYSTEM ( 




WOMAN'S ENVELOPE DRAWERS— Size .-r. 



Lesson No. 418 



In order to begin the envelope drawers note that tliis sarmcnt is cut on the prin- 
ciple of a circular skirt which is followed according to the waist and hip measurements. 

To begin to draft draw a line from A to C measuring half of waist measurement amount- 
in"- to 12K> inches according to 25 inches waist. Then square a line up from C to D and 
measure 6* inches for the hack raise. Measure from 1) towards G 12^. inches, which is 
half of waist measurement and draw a line from D to (i and square a straight line down 
from G to B. which makes the front length amounting to 26 inches for the envelope draw- 
ers. Take 3< between G and D making U and from H to j mark \Vi inches and curve 
from (j towards I up to D. Then make parallel 6 inches l>etween G to I, J to E, and D 
to F and curve from I towards IC to F. Measure from I to I'"" half of hip measurement 
amounting to 21"'' inches and draw a line from D towards F and down to L and S mak- 
in"- the hack line." Xow measure from D to L 26 inches liack length. From L to S meas- 
ure 9 inches for the envelope efli'cct and from S to K make 3 inches and curve from R 
to P as shown on the diagram. Make the side length also 26 inches from J to T and 
curve the liottom for the envelope drawers from B. T. P to L. The space from L to P 
where the curve is lost is the same amount as from L to S. 

To make the side opening for the envelope drawers divide on the waist line from 
(i to I making 1 and from 1 to \'. on the hip line making 2 and split from 1 to 2 wliirh 
will be the proper place for opening for the envelope drawers. 



824 




THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 



-^-■J 




WOMAN'S ONE-PIECE PAJAMAS 
Kimono Style, Front Part — Size 36 

Lesson No. 419 



To begin the front part of the one-piece pajamas continue partly with the outlines 
of the first lesson in the following manner. Draw a straight line from 1 to 6 and 1 to 5. 
Measure from 1 to 2, 7 inches hack depth and 2 to 3. I5j^ inches waist length. Then 
measure from 3 to 4, IS inclies rise and from 3 to 5, 41 inches outside length and draw 
a line across from 1 to 5 which is the top line, 2 to 7 l)reast line, 3 to 8 waist line and 
4 to 9 crutcli and 5 to 10 bottom line. 

Now make the upper part of the pajamas by measuring from 2 to 11 and 1 to 12 -6 
of 36 inches amounting to 3 inches and the same amount should be measured from 12 
to 13 and from 13 up to 14. Then draw a line for the front shoulder from 14 against 1 out 
to 23. In order to finish this line measure the back shoulder and sleeve from 18 to 20 
and apply the same amount from 14 to 23. Then square a line from 23 down to 24 
and lower the armhole from 2 to 22 with 3 inches and measure the space from 1 to 
22 and apply the same amount from 23 to 24 which amounts to 10 inches and connect 
22 to 24 which will complete the kimono sleeve for the front part. 

To finish the front part measure from 13 to 15, 1-6 of size amounting to 3 inches 
and allow 34 inch for a seam. Then measure on the breast line from 11 to 16, J4 of 
size amounting to 9 inches for size 36 and curve from 15 against 16 down to 17 and 18. 
Measure from 4 to 19 on the crutch line half of 43 inches hip amounting to 10)4 inches 
and draw a straight line up from 19 towards 18 to 17, 8, 7 to 6. 17 is half the space 
between 8 and 18. 

Now finish the lower part of the pajamas. Measure from 19 to 9, 1-6 of hip measure- 
ment amounting to 3^i inclics and make the same amount from 19 up to 18. Connect a 
line from 18 to 9 and take half between 18 and 9 making 21 and curve a Yz inch below 21 
to 9 from 18, as shown on the diagram. Now take half between 9 and 19 making 20 and 
square a line down from 20 to 10 and make a curve from 9 to 10, as shown on the diagram. 
If a straight side seam is wanted use the straight line from 4 to 5. If a shapy efTect is 
wanted take 1/2 inch otT at 5 and follow the heavy line from 4 to 5. 

For button-stand allow 1 inch which is to begin at the front neck at 15 and continue 
the same down to 17 which is about the proper length of opening for pajamas. At the same 
time, make the curve of the front neck as shown on the diagram. If more opening is 
wanted than the natural neck curve follow the trace line below the neck as shown on the 
front and back diagrams which is 3 inches cut out from 1 the ordinary neck curve. This 
may be changed for more or less opening which, as a rule, is followed according to the 
style, from time to time. This completes the pajamas with all seams allowed. 



825 




T. ROSENFELD'S SYSTEM 

^77 



& 





826 




THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 




WOMAN'S ONE-PIECE PAJAMAS 
Kimono Style, Back Part — Size 35 

Lesson No. 420 



To begin the one-piece pajamas use measurements according to the iMOportions of size 
,i6 ;ui(l use the foundation liiK> of the tirst lesson as follows: Draw a strait;ht line from 1 to 4 
and 1 to 5. Measure from 1 to 2, 7 inches back depth as for the tirst lesson. From 1 to 3 
measure \Sy2 inches waist Icngfth and from 3 to 4 measure IS inches rise length. Then 
draw all lines across from 1 to 5 top line: 2 to 6 Ineast line; 3 to 7 waist line and 4 to S 
crutch. Now measure from 1 to 5 and 4 to S, 1-3 of 36 inclies amounting to 12 inches p"'d 
connect a line from 5 towards H down to 12 and measure 41 inches outside length froi i 7 
.to 12 and from 12 draw a line across to 11 which is the bottom line. 

Now make the width of back. Take half between 2 and 6 on the lireast line making 
14. From 14 to 15 allow 1J4 inches. Measure the space between 2 and 15 and make the 
same space from 1 to 16 and connect a Imc from 15 to 16. 



Now make the back neck. Measure from 
1 inch and curve for a close neck from 1 to 18. 
kimono sleeve from hS against 16 out tow 
from 20 to 21. The space from 19 to 20 is 12 
space for a deep armhole from 6 to 22, 3 inches 
1 inch in. Measure the space from the line 
and measure the same amount of 9 inches 
a curve from 23 towards 8 which is at the side 
a normal shoulder with armhole square a line 
width of shoulder from 18 to 19. Should a 
shoulder width between 18 and 19 and also 
and 2 and make a curve, as shown by the 
back. 



1 to 17, 3 inches and raise up from 17 to 18, 

Then draw out a line for the shoulder and 

ards 19 and 20. Now square a line down 

inches for a short kimono sleeve. Lower the 

for a kimono armhole. From 2 to 23 make 

]>elow 5 to 22 which amounts to 9 inches 

from 20 to 21 and connect 24 to 23 and make 

line lost to the crutch line. Should wc want 

from 19 down to 15 which will give the normal 

low cut-out neck be desired take half of the 

half the space at the center back between 1 

dotted line from the top shoulder to the center 



To complete the lower part of the pajamas measure at the crutch line from 4 to 10, 
1-6 of hip atnounting to 35'8 inches and connect a straight line up from 10 to 1 and square 
a line down from 10 to 11. Then add another 1-6 of hip measurement from 10 to 9 and 
curve from 9 to 11 and make the crutch curve from 9, as shown on the diagram, up towards 
the center back line which goes to 1. For more fullness at the side seam cut out draft 
according to the straight line from 8 to 12 and for a narrower bottom take off from 12 to 
13, yj inch and make 13 lost to 8 wjiich will complete the back part of the one-piece 
pajamas, with all scams allowed. 

For back buttoning with gathering for these pajamas see back part of combination 
chemise. 



827 




I. ROSJENFEI^D'S SYSTEM 



?^ 



m 





828 




THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 




WOMAN'S COMBINATION CHEMISE, Back Part— Size 36 

Lesson No. 121 

In order to begin the cuinbiiiatiDU chcinist- use tin.' siinilar fi)Uiidatiun uutliiics of the 
jiajanias Ijy nuikinii' use of tlu- 7 iuchc> luick depth truin 1 to 2, 15)j inches \\aist length 
I'niin 1 to o and rise nieasiwe from ,i to 4. Accorthny to tliis foundation draw lines 
acro.~s from 1 to 5, 2 to 6. 3 to 7 and 4 to V.. Then measure additional tS inches for the 
drawers elTect from \\ to A and draw lines across from A to B. The space between 1 
and 5 and 4 and IL is 1-3 of size amounting to 12 inches the same as explained before. 

To continue the comliiiiation effect for this liack part measure from 4 to 10 and 10 to 
9. 1-6 of hip measurement for each amountinj^- to 3S^ inches, or altogether, the space from 
4 to 9 amounts to 1-3 of hip measurement amountinpf to FH inches. Sciuare a line 
down from 9 to B and increase for more fullness at the ijottom from B to L with 1 inch and 
connect C to 9. Increase with 1 incli from A to D and draw a straight line from D to 13 and 
from 13 curve up to 23 the .^anie way as for the one-piece pajam;is. The si)ace between 22 
and 23 is ! inch, kememljer that according to this instruction wc will have the armhole 3 
inches deep from 6 to 22 and, therefore, curve the armhole, as shown oii the diagiam, from 
19 down to 23. Then linish the center back for more fullness by drawing a st'-aight line 
from 1 down to 10 which is at the crutch, and cui\e from 9 u|) ttiwards 20 for olitaining '.' 
ordinary back part for the combination chemise. 

If back buttoning with fullness is desired note the follow iiig changes. Take half between 

2 and 4 which is between breast and crutch lines making 11. From 11 draw a line out to 
12 and 13 and measure from 20 to 12. 3 inches for gathering. In order to cut in the opening 
divide the space equally between 12 and 13 making 21 which is the place to cut in for the 
opening of buck butt(jning, as shown on the diagram. Then connect a line from 12 to 10 
and cm-ve from 12 down towards 9, as shown on the diagram, which will complete the back 
for hack buttoning with gathering around the l)ack part of the hip. 

For cutting out the back part for this parlicular rtyle begin to cut the back from the 
'lO]) from 1 to 20, from 20 to 21 down to F. Then continue cutting out from 20 to 12 
towards 9 down to C and fromC cross to D up towards S to 13 and 23. As a rule, this 
garment is to l;c cut with a low neck opening. Therefore, take half between 1 and 2 makirj^ 
11 and take 3 inches from 18 to G and cut from H to G and from G to 19 which com- 
]iletes the back part for this garment with all seams allowed. 

WOMAN'S COMBINATION CHEMISE, Front Part— Size 36 

Lesson No.422 

To begin the front part for the combination chemise draw outlines on the same prin- 
ci])le as for the back or exactly the same as for the front pajamas. I'-rom 1 to 2 is 7 inches 
lack depth; 1 to 3. \5l6 inches waist length and 3 to 4 is IS inches rise. Then draw lines 
from 1 to 6, 2 to 7, 3 to S and 4 to 9 and continue the front part the same way as for the 
oue-i)iccc pajamas with the exception of making the armhole according to the'dcepness of 

3 inches between 2 and 22 and make a curve from 1 to 22 for the front armhole. Then 
draw a line down from 9 to 91 and measure there 8 inches and draw a straight line across 
from 91 to 21 and extend from 4 to 20, 1 inch. Xow draw a straight line from 22 against 3 
down towards 20 and 21. 

Now allow for button-stand 1 inch from 15 down towards 16 to 17 in the same manner 
as for the one-piece pajamas. If full length buttoning is wanted to th.e crutch continue the 
buttoning to 18. Then continue the curve of the crutch from 18 to 9 as usual. 

As a low neck is wanted for the combination chemise measure from 14 to C. 3 inches 
a- d divide from L=> to 16 making D and curve from C to D for a low neck, as shown on the 
diagram. ( )thcrwise, this front part of the combination chemise is completed with all 
reccssary seams allowed. For cutting out follow the heavy lines of this diagram. 



829 




I. ROSEISTFELD'S SYSTEM 





830 




THE PRACTICAL DESIGNEK 




WOMAN'S STEP-IN CHEMISE— Size 36 
Lesson No. 423 

In order to begin the step-in chemise, prrpaif tlu' (.iniiplrti-- huiinlatiun dl tlic or(h- 
iiaiv chemise, wliich is tuily (.'Xijhiined uii l)ai;cs SU() ;uul Xl)7. ami then continue as lollows; 

To continue for the step-in chemise, measure huni the l)reasl line down, which is Irom 
2 lo 7, IS inches, and draw a line trcjm 7 to 77. which is the proper lenj.;th lor tlie upper 
l)art ol tiiis chemise. Then there will remain ,i halance of 11 inches I'roin 7 to .S. and you will 
note that 5 is the liottoni line of the ordinary chemise. Now lower from 7 tu 44 at the 
center hack line with 1 inch and at the fiont fiom 77 to 53 lower with 2 inches and connect 
a line from 44 lo Mh which completes the length in the i)roper shajje for the hack. Also 
coiniect a line from ,^.3 to .i7, which will tinish in the proi)er shape the huttum of the front. 
When these holloni lines arc cunipleted we are ahout ready to i)re])are the se])arate parts of 
the step-in elTcct on the very same foundation. Therefore, note that tiie line from 7 to 77 
is the hcginniny line for the lower i)art or step-in ellect. 

To complete the step-in effect for the back part, measure the space hctween 5 and 6, 
and note th.it the line at 6 is the line continued from the center hack seam of the chemise, 
which is continued from 2)}i towards 4 down to 6. Therefore, measure the space from 5 to 6 
and api)ly the same from 5 to 66 and draw a line from 6 towards 66 to SS. Now measure tlie 
space from 6 to 66 and a])ply the same from (it to XS. Then cur\e from SS, as shown on 
the dia.q;ram, lost to 3.\ wliich will make the hottom cur\e of the hack part of the step-in 
etl'cct. Now measure at the hottom of the front from 12 to SO. 3 inches and also from 12 
to SI. 3 inches and connect with a line from SI tf) SO. You will note that the space from SO 
to SI measures the same amount as the space at the hack from 6 to SS and then curse the 
hottom of the front from 34 to SI. Connect a line from 77 to ."^'0. which is the front edj^e of 
the front part for the step-in effect. 

The neck opening for this .ijarment, as a rule, is made on the same princijilc as for 
the ordinary chemise, with a slij^ht difYcrencc that it is made with a lost shoulder strip. 
Therefore take half of each shoulder, for the hack from 20 to 21, making: 3'), and curve from 
N to 39, and from 39 to the armhole deepness at 3S. The front shoulder divide the same 
way from 24 to 25. makinfj 40. and cur\e from 40 to 9, to the front cd,L;e, and from 40 to 3S, 
to the- hottom of the armhole. as shown on the diag^ram. Should a \ sha])c neck he wanted, 
follow the trace lines for the front from 40 to 9 and for the liack from .39 to X. 

To cut out the step-in effect, note that the straight line from 7 to 77 is the top line 
of the step-in effect and therefore ctit out the hack from 36 to 7, to the center hack down to 
6, from 6 to SS, and from SS to H up to 36. To cut out the front, cut from TJ to 77 down to 
SO and 81, and from SI to .i4 up to 17. When these parts arc cut out you will note, as a 
rule, there are no scams allowed at the side of the step-in effect, and, therefore, sec instruc- 
tions below. 



Also note that according to the usual rule the bottom of the step-in from 6 to 88 and 

SO to 81 are seamed together, hut for more practical use according to our diagram we show 

the same can he buttoned. Therefore allow 1 inch button-stand at the bottom of the back 

part from 6 to A and 88 to B, as shown on the ag am. ( ;therwise, this step-in chemise is 

complete with all necessary seams allow ed. 

Lesson No. 424 

To make the step-in effect in one-piece, cut out as cxi)lained and copy the hack part 
as shown on the miniatiu-e diagram from A', B, C, D, to K. and place the front side seam 
next to the hack side seam from F to D and G to E and continue copying the front i>art to 
H. I and J and connect J to G, as shown on the diagram. See that the brakes are filled in 
at the top at D to F and at the hottom at G to E. This makes the step-in effect in one- 
piece with all necessary seams allowed. 



831 




T. ROSENFELD'S SYSTEM 





832 




THE PRACTICAL DKolONJER 





THE STUDY OF THE STOUT FORM 

Lesson No. 425 

In order to clothe the stout form ])rn])i,rly we Inul many 
i"liant,a's ill foriiuility. Ihc cliaiiincs arc shown in many re- 
spects as there are reyniar stunts, short stunts and extra stunts. 
Note illn,^l.atiun and table of proportions. 

The regular stout form is hnilt in regular natural waist 
length. The width of l)ack is |)ropurtiunately built to its size. 
Ihe bust measurement is increased accordinjf to its proptir- 
tions. The all-around waist is increased or o\er-built, accord- 
inif to size, which makes this fcjrm a stout. 

The short stout form is greatly changed in natural waist 
length, being a great deal shorter on account of the heig;ht. 
The bust measurement is somewhat full and shows a great 
deal larger on account of the short height. The waist is 
particularly o\er-built, similar to the natural proportions of a 
stout. 'J"he sleeve is a great deal shorter than for the regular 
stout or the pro])ortionately built person. As the armhole 
of e\cry stout is to occupy larg:c deepness, tlie under-arm for 
this short stout is particularly \ery short. 

The extra stout form is greatly changed on account of its 
height. The back depth and natural waist length is long, 'i'he 
sleeve length is full lengfth, similar to the re.gular jiroportionate 
lar.ge size, which may be for the extra stout form from 1') to 20 
inches. 

In order to make the foundation pattern, make the founda- 
tion outlines for drafting according to the table of proportions 
g:iven on the o])i)osrte page for any branch of stouts desired. 
By all means follow the rules and regulations as for the regular 
proportions, with the excejition of using the measurements 
for stouts. The model size for short stouts is size 41 and the 
model size for regular stouts is size 45. 



833 




T. ROSENFELD'S SYSTEM 

^y7 




Proportional Stout Measurements for Women s Garments — for Height of 5 feet 6 inches 



Lesson No. 426 



Size 










Natural 




Inside 


Width 


or 








Back 


Waist 


Side 


Sleeve 


of ■ 


Chest 


Bust 


Waist 


Hip 


Depth 


Length 


Length 


Length 


Back 


40 


43 


30 


45 


7/ 


15/. 


8 


18 


7V^ 


41 


44 


31 


46 


7Yi 


15/ 


7J8 


18 


8 


42 


45 


},2 


47 


7M 


15/ 


7/ 


18 


8;/s 


43 


46 


32/, 


471/2 


7y» 


15/ 


7H 


18 


8/ 


44 


47 


ii 


4S 


8 


15/ 


7Vi 


17/ 


8/ 


45 


4S 


2>iy2 


4X'/2 


8/8 


15/2 


7H 


17/ 


8/2 


46 


49 


34 


49 


8J4 


15/ 


7Va 


17/ 


8/8 


47 


49!/2 


34!/2 


49/2 


m 


15/2 


7/^ 


17/2 


8/ 


4S 


50 


35 


50 


8/2 


15/ 


7 


17/2 


87/s 


49 


50!/2 


355/2 


501/2 


8H 


15/8 


6/ 


17/ 


9 


50 


51 


36 


51 


m 


15/8 


6/2 


17/ 


9/ 


51 


52 


Z7 


52 


8M 


15^ 


6/2 


17/ 


9/ 


52 


53 


3S 


53 


8)4 


15/ 


6/8 


17 


9/8 


53 


54 


39 


54 


s-M 


15/ 


6^ 


17 


9/2 


54 


55 


40 


55 


8^ 


15/ 


6/ 


17 


Wi 




Short 


and Stoul 


: Proportions — for 


Height of 


5 feet 4 inches. 




38 


41 


28 


431/2 


7H 


14^ 


7/ 


17 


7H 


39 


42 


29 


44 


7Vi 


14/4 


7/ 


17 


7/ 


40 


43 


30 


4414 


7H 


147.^ 


7/ 


17 


7n 


41 


44 


31 


45/2 


7yA 


15 


7/ 


I6/2 


8 


42 


45 


32 


46/2 


7n 


15 


7/ 


16/ 


^% 


43 


45/2 


Zi 


47 


8 


15 


7 


I6/2 


8/ 


44 


46 


34 


471/2 


8/8 


15 


6/8 


16/ 


8->i 


45 


47 


35 


48 


^Va 


15 


6/ 


16/ 


8/2 


46 


47K> 


36 


48/2 


m 


15 


6H 


16/ 


8/8 


47 


4S 


37/2 


49 


8/2 


15 


6/2 


16/ 


8/ 


48 


49 


6^ 


49/2 


8/8 


15 


6H 


16/ 


8?^ 



834 




THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 




WOMAN'S TIGHT-FITTING DRAWERS. FRONT PART— Size 36 

Lesson No. 427 



To begin the tight-fitting drawers fi-uiit pait draw imtlitus .■u-cordiiij;- in the saiiu' 
principle- a> for ihc pantaluuii.s with tlii.- exccpUnn uf Uic Idwit part, whicli is the kiui-, calf 
and anklr and use iiicasurcnicnts. as fulluws: 



( )utsi(k' lcii,L;th 41 inches 

Rise 12 inches 

Waist 25 inches 

Hip 43 inches 



Knee l.i inches 

Calf 15 inclies 

Ankle 12 inches 



In order to begin follnw- the up]HT iiart froni waist tu hip as ex])laine(l fur the |)antalooii 
pajamas. Measure fruui .\ to C, 12 inches rise and from .\ to (I. 41 inches outside lent^th. 
Tlien divide ecjually hetween I', and (1 makint;- V and raise up fmm \'. 2 inches niakint;- C. 
Cross a line from .\ to I\ for waist line; B to 1 hi]) line and from C to I knee line. Measure 
from C to ]i lower with 6 inches and cross a line from V. to o for calf line and C, to 5 for 
bottom or ankle lijie. Allow from B to U, 1 >^ inches for fullness and cur\c from Q to U 
which is from the waist to the hip at the side scam. Then di\idc the space 
equally hetween 1'. and 1 niakinq- .s and draw a line u]) from S to 1. and from S down 
towards \'. W and T. which makes the center line for the front ])art of the titjlit-fitting 
drawers. 

Now make the knee, ankle and calf as follows: Nf)te that the knee measurement is 13 
inches. Take J4 of 13 inches amountiiin; to 3 '4 inches and measure it at each side of \' to 1 
and 2. Measure 15 inches for calf, takins^- 3-4 of 15 inches amountin.ij to 3' i inches at each 
side of W to 3 and 4 on the calf line. 'l"o make the ankle or bottom of the front see that the 
ankle or bottom amounts to 12 inclies. Take % of 12 inches amounting- to 3 inches at each 
side of T to 5 and 6. Make curves according- to the diagram of the front part for the 
outside from Q to U towards 2 and 4 down to 6 and for the inside seam make a curve from 
I, 1 and 3 down to 5. This comjiletes the front jiart with all seams allowed. 



Back Part— Size 36 
Lesson No. 428 



To make the back part continue on the front part as follows: Raise a strai.qht line up 
from L to K measuring 3 inches. Draw a line from L to P and measure from L to .\ >4 of 25 
inches waist amounting to 6'4 inches and allow from .\ to 1*. 3 inches for seams and full- 
ness. Allow from R to I', 3 inches and from 2 to C, 4 to !•: and 6 to C. I'j inches. Then 
curve from K to the main crutch of the front to I, as shown on the diagram, and curve 
from J to I down towards II and M. Measure, as "usual, from 1 to M. 1/12 of hip m'easure- 
mcnt and from II to M is 1 inch allowed for seams, .\llow 1'/. inches for scams from 1 
to Y, 3 to F and 5 to D and curve the bottom from (', to D. Should a more fitted waist 
be wanted follow the dart instructions as explained in the lesson of the jiantaloon pajamas. 



833 




I. ROSENFELD'S SYSTEM 




-^^^^ 





Bqck Part— Size 36 



Front Part— Size 36 



836 




the; practical DKSIClISrER 



WOMAN'S KIMONO EFFECT FOUNDATION— Size 36 



Lesson No. 429 



In order to begin tlic l<inn)iuj (.'ffccl I'miiulatidn draw tlu- cirdiiiary Dtitliiu'S accordinsj to 
tla- first anil sccoiid Ic-ssons of this n'oUuhi' as tar as tlu' Imst willi sranis alluwi'd and tluMi 
di\i(le tlic arniludc equally, as follows: 

To begin dixidc tlic space between S and 14 on the breast line, which is the arnihole 
sjjace niakins;- 26. Draw a line dcnvn from 26 to 27 which is at the waist line. Take rnit 
from each side of 26 at the breast line to 5 and 2S. '/j inch each, and at the waist line fmni 
each side of 7 to 29 and 30 take out 1 inch each ur whatexer the style may reciuirc. and connect 
a line for the side scam of the back from 2S to 30 and for the front side scam from 3 to 29. 
Make the arnihole with 1'/. inches deeper from 26 to 31 and 32 which is useful for the 
kimono style. 

To make the back part of the kimono style continue a line from the shoulder from 11 
towards 9 out to 33 and measure from the regular width of shoulder, which is from 12 to ^^ 
for a short sleeve length, 12 inches. Then sc|uare a line down from 33 to 34 and in order 
to ijet the width of sleeve measure the parallel space from 35 to 32 and apply the same 
amount which is about Xjj inches from ?i?> to 34 and connect a line from 32 to 34 which 
will finish the back jiart of the kimono efl'ect. 

To finish the front part ijf the kimono effect raise 3 inches frijm 20 to 36 and connect a 
line from 36 to 4, which is the width of front shoulder and measure 12 inches for the sleeve 
len,a;th from 4 to ,^7. Now measure the width of back sleeve from 30 to 34 about S'/i inches 
and measure with 1 inch additionally amountinof to Qj-j inches from ?i7 to 3K. N'ow coimcct 
with a line from 3S to 31, which will coni])letc the front kimono sleeve. 

Now finish the bottom of this kimono elTcct fotmdation the same as for the corset cover 
or according- to any other style this is made to be used. This kimono style foundation rs 
useful for all sjarinents that they may be built witli a kimono style, such as, ni.e:ht gfowns. 
])aiamas. etc. This lesson is complete with all necessary scams allowed. 



837 




I. ROSENFELD'S SYSTEM 





838 




THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 




WOMAN'S PAJAMA BLOUSE— Size 36 



Lesson No. 430 



In order to begin tlir piijaiiia 1i1(jusc ful Idw tlir mrasurfiiu'iits ;in(l I'oundatiuii uullincs 
;icci)r(lini;' to tin.' lirst luul second lessons of this xohnne as lar as the hnst nu'asin'cinent 
with scams allowed, and then continue as follows : 

Make the bottom line for the complete len<;th hy measurinj;- 12 inches from C to 7.7. 
and (haw a line across from '/./. to Z. This will hriny; a nt^rmal leni^th for the pajama 
hlouse. Now Sfpiare a line down from the breast line which is from V to W and extend 
at the waist line from W to Y, 1 inch and draw a line from \' against Y down to 7. which 
will give the edge of the front, l-'rom \' connect a line up to the front neck ])oint to R. 
As a rule, a low opening is made for the pajama hlouse. then draw a straight line from 
the front shoulder jxjint from 1' to \' aiul allow I'j inches for button-stand from \' to 4 
at the lireast line, Z to 5 at the bottom line and connect 4 to 5. Should it be necessary to 
have the button-stand all the way up to the neck continue IJ/S inches parallel to the front 
neck edge up to R. 

Now make the side seam and armhol?. Divide equally the space between H and M 
making .\.\ and <lraw a straight line do-,vn from .\.\ to 1. Take out from each side of 
A.\ to I', and X a Ij inch. Curve from X to I', down to the l)ottom line lost to 1. Should 
we want a more straight side blouse dcdu;t a J4 inch at the bottom line at each side ot 
1 to 2 and 3 and comiect X to 3 and \l to 2. Then raise up Y^, of an inch at 1, which is 
the liottom of the side seam and curve ZZ lo 1, which is tlie bottom cin'\e of the back and 
curve from 1 to Z to the edge of the front lor the l;ottom of the front. Then cur\-e the 
armhole foi ordinary deepness at the back from 1, to X and for the front from T to Iv 
As no seam back is wanted, follow the straight line of the center back from A to ZZ and 
deduct there ■■/■^ of an inch for no seam back as shown on the diagram by the dotted Ime. 

To make the pocket in the patch style at the breast part of the Idouse ])lace the same 
1 inch in from M to 6 and draw a line from 6 to 7 about Yz inch bias from the breast line 
down. Measure from 6 to 7, 5 inches for size 36 which is a Jj inch more than Y^ of 
size. Now draw a line down from 6 to 9 and 7 to S and measure there 1 inch additional, 
amounting to 6 inches and connect 1^ to 9. which will com]ilete the bottom of the patch 
pocket which may be changed according to style or taste. 

Should a lower pocket be wanted use the same instruction, with the excejition that 
the lower pocket is to be placed at least 2 inches below the waist line. The size of the 
pocket is to occupy the same sjiace. This completes the pajama blouse with all necessary 
seams allowed. 



839 




T. ROSJENFELDS SYSTEM _ 





640 




THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 





WOMAN'S STANDING COLLAR— Size 36 



Lesson No. 431 



The standing collar wliich is useful U>v all liuttoii-up necks, whicli is specially used 
for the pajania lilousc, is followed accordint^- to the neck measurement, which is 14 inches 
for size 36. To draft act as follows: 



To begin draw a line from A to P> and R to D. Measure from A to B, 3 inches, and 
from B to D, 15 inches, which is 14 inches for all-around neck measurement and 1 inch 
for seams. Then measure from D to C, 3 inches, and connect a line from A to C. Now 
divide from B to D, makincf K. and draw a line up from F. to F. Raise up from B to II 
and D to T, 1 inch each and lower from F to (I, with 1 inch at the center line. Curve, as 
shown on the diagram, frf)m A, K to G and from G to J and C. Also curve from II to 
K and from F. to 1. Deduct a Jj inch from A to K and C to J and draw a line from K 
to II and J to 1, which will complete the standincf collar witli all necessary seams allowed. 



841 




I. ROSENFELD'S SYSTEM 





WOMAN'S FLAT COLLAR— Size 36 



Lesson No. 432 



The flat collar is also used on all hutton-up-iicck s-annents and lays flat over the shoul- 
ders, and produces no stand. In order to produce the .'anic use the front and back of a 
Initton-up garment and coi)y tlic neck of the I ack first, as shown on the diagram, froiii 
A to C. C to D. A to B and B to D. Then hqi-ovcr the front part at the shoulder seams 
by deducting a y, inch at C to K and D to F and continue copying the front neck from 
C to G and G to 11 according to the edge of the front and copy from II to D all around 
to F and B. which will complete the width of the collar. 

The width of this collar, which is from .\ to R and G to II. sliallhe about 4 inches, 
which will complete the collar in a 3-inch widtli when all seams are deducted. Accord- 
ing to this instruction all seams are allowed. 



oJ42 




THE PRACTICAX, DESIGNER 




WOMAN'S ONE-PIECE SLEEVE ON TOP OF ARMHOLE 



Lesson No. 433 



In order to begin the sleeve note that lor nn<k'r\\car where sleeves arc necessary only 
une-piece sleeves, as a rule, are nsed. Therefore, note the diagram on the op])osite pa<j;e 
showini^ how simply wc can ohtain a one-])iece slecxe on to]) of the arnihole which saves 
a great deal of time and material. When a one-i>iece slee\e is desired com]ilete the entire 
draft of the <j'armcnt wanted with an eqnal divided armhole and then act as follows: 

To begin measnre 1/S of size anionntiny to 4'j inches at the hack from II to .1 and tin- 
same from .1 to 4. For the front measure the same 1/S of size from M to 1 and 1 to 2. 'I'lun 
connect a line from 2 to 4 :is shown on the diagram, and draw a line down at the hack from 
3 to 5 and at the front from 1 to 6. Measure the inner sleeve length which is for the full 
length slee\e IS inches and measure this amount from 3 to 5 and 1 to 6. Then connect a 
line for the bottom of sleeve from 5 to 6. Now note that in order to complete the head of 
the sleeve we curve for the hack part of the sleexe from 4 towards 11 to \'.y. and for the front 
head of the sleeve we curve from !■' towards 12 to 2. This will complete the njiper part of 
the sleeve which will lit the particular armhole the sleeve is drafted on. 



To finish the hottom of the sleeve to any width desired, we should fnst decide tlv 
width wanted, h'or instance, make 12 inches for the bottom or cufT of this sleeve. In 
such case, measnre from 5 to 7 at the hack part 6 inches and at the front part from 6 to S also (3 
inches and connect with a curved line, as shown on the diagram, fioni 1". M to 7 for the 
hack sleev e and curve from E to 8 for the front sleeve. Then add a '/j inch at the holtom 
sleeve from 3 to 9 and connect 9 to 7 and the same way add a ^ inch from 6 to 10 ;ind 
■onnect with a curve from S to 10, which vv: 1 comiilete the entire one-i)iece sleeve with all 
necessary seams allowed. 

If the sleeve is desired in I2, ?4 O'' Vi length, then act as follows: For a '/ length sleeve 
take half of the inside length from FJC to 7 or F. to 8 which amounts to 9 inches for a J/l 
sleeve length. If a 14 length sleeve is desired take V^ from I", and 1". F down tt)wards the 
hottom which amounts to 4K' inches. When a -,'4 length sleeve is wanted take ¥4 of the 
inside length from the arnihole down, which amounts to 13>1. inches. The full length 
sleeve as the diagram shows is from the armhole down and amounts to 18 inches. 



843 




T. ROSENFELD'S SYSTEM /( 





844 




THE PRACTICAL DESIGNER 




WOMAN'S TWO PIECE OR FOUR-GORE PETTICOAT— Size 36 



Lesson No. 434 



In order to begin the petticoat use the fulluwing ^5tan(laT•d iiuasurLiiirnts or for stylisii 
nu'a.-uri.-iiu'iits ml ihi- rractical Adviser of l^rojjortions. 

Waist 25 inches Front LcnQ:th 40 inches 

Hi]) 43 inches Side Length 41 inchc. 

P.ack Lengtli ".'.42 inches 

To begin draw a hne from 1 to 2 and 1 to 3 and measure lialf of 23 inches waist measurement 
from 1 to 4 amounting to 12^^; inches. Then allow from 4 to 3. 3 inches for fullness and allow 
1 inch additional if only a side seam is wanted, which is useful for a two-piece petticoat. If 
this ])elticoat is sujjposed to be four-gore allow 2 inches for seams and 3 inches for fullness 
for which the total amount, in such case, will he 5 inches between 4 and 3. Then raise uji 
from 3 to 5, 4>2 inches and connect with a line from 1 to 5. Raise up from 1 to 0, 1 inch and 
curxe, as shown on the diagram, from 9, 10 to 5. 

Now measure from 1 to 6 and 5 to 7, 6 inches and draw a line from 6 to 7 making the 
hip line. Measure from 6 to 7 half of 43 inches hip measurement amounting to 21>1. inches 
and 1 inch additional for a scam making 22>2 inches. Draw a line from 5 towards 7 down 
to cS and measure from 5 to 8, 42 inches back length. Now divide the space on the waist lin..- 
from 9 to 5 equally making 10. Measure the bottom from 2 to S making 11 and connect a 
line from 10 to 11 and measure from 10 to 11, 41 inches side length. Now curve the bottom 
from 2 towards 11 to 8. This completes the petticoat in tworpieces or four-pieces with 
gathers at the w'aist. 

Should no gathering be wanted around the waist, then measure the waist curve from 9 
to 5. If the space there measures 18 inches take out for a dart the amount that is over half of 
waist including the amount allowed for scams, which is as follows: Half of 25 inches waist 
is 12K' inches and if 2 inches are allowed for seams which makes 14j/>, in such case, deduct 
14J4 inches from 18 inches, which shows there is an over-amount of 3'^ inches. In this case, 
take out from each side of 10 to 12 and 13, 1;M inches and curve from 12 and 13 lost to the 
hip line to 14. This will complete the two-piece or four gore petticoat. 



/, 



a 



845 




T. ROSJENFELD'S SYSTEM 







^ 




846 




THE PRACTICAL DESiaNEI 




WOMAN'S FIVE-GORE PETTICOAT— Size 36 



Lessen No. 435 



To begin the five-gore petticoat iiKikc tlie I'oumhition outlines as fnr the lesson cx])laiiK'd 
before with the diflerence that \vc arc to allow 2'j inches lor 5 scams at the waist i.nd hip 
lines after measuring the waist and hip measurements. Begin by measuring the front panel 
which is 3 inches from 12 to 13 at the waist line and 6 inches at the bottom curve irom 2 
to 14, and draw a straight line from 13 to 1^'-. 

Now divide the inner gores. Divide thq space equally from 13 to 6 at the waist line making 
15 and the same way divide the bottom curve from 14 to 10 making 11 and draw a straight 
line from 15 to 11 making the side scam for a five-gore petticoat. If fullness is wantel at 
the waist line leave the foundation as it is without taking any dart out. Should wc want a 
dart follow the rule and regulations as explained in the last lesson. 

Take special notice that this petticoat can be drafted according to any measurements 
wanted. For instance, if a large waist measurement is desired with small hip measurement, 
which is, as a rule, changeable every season according to the shape of various models use 
the same system according to such measurements. If 28 inches waist measurement is de- 
sired simiily measure according to this diagramfrom 1 to 3, 14 of 2S inches waist measurement 
amounting to 14 inches. Then continue from ,> to 4 allowing 3 inches for fullness and allow 
for this five-gore petticoat from -! to 5, 2j,l inches for seams and raise the same way up a 
line from 5 to 6 amounting to 4-14 inches. Otherwise, act as explained before including hip 
measurement whatever it may be with the understanding that according to this diagram wc 
measure J.j of hip measurement from 7 to 8 and allow 2y> inclies for seams from S to 9, which 
is the same amount as allowed at the waist. Then draw a back line from 6 toward 9 and 
10 and finish the bottom of this petticoat as usual. 

If petticoats are desired for misses' sizes, all it would be necessary is to use the waist 
and hip measurements as given on the table ot])roportions for misses' sizes. Lengths may be 
followed according to the table of proportions or according to style. It is very important to 
know that lengths are, as a rule, followed according to style, because the petticoat is always 
to be shorter with 1 or 2 inches than the dress or skirt and, therefore, the length shall be 
guided according to the length of skirts or dresses. 



847 




T. ROSE]^^FELD'S SYSTEM 







^ 




848 




THE PRACTICAL DESlGISrER 




MISSES' FOUNDATION OUTLINES— Size 16. 



Lesson No.436 

In order to begin the misses' foundation outlines all we iice'd tu n'mi'iiilu-r i-> llie 
(lirurnur hrtwxrn wuiiK'n's and misses' propdvlions. and for best results the student will 
act piaclieall}' hy {:< )U\\Ku\ni; the measurenieuls of a wcnnan's size 06 and a misses' size 16 
fur which the talile ot proportions are prepared in the front pages of this volume. To begin 
to draft we are to prepare the fotmdation acoording to standard measurements, wiiich are as 
lollows : 



Rack deptli /y}i 

Waist lentrth . . 



inches All aroun<l chest 34 inches 

15 inches Bust 57 inches 

\11 around waist 2,i inclics 



To begin to draft draw sc|uare lines as usud from A to C and A to R. Then measure from 
A to B. 6-}4 inches hack depth and from .K to C, 15 inches natural waist length and draw- 
lines from A to R, B to W and C to X. Measure 2/3 of 34 inches wliich is the chest measure- 
ment for size 16 amounting to 11 3/S inches from A to D. P. to K and C to F. 



Now prepare the width of back. Divide the space on tlie breast line between P. and \l 
making G. Allow from G to 11, l'/^ inches. Then measure the space from B to H on the 
breast line and place the same amount on the top line from A to I and connect a line from 
1 to II. Measure 1/6 of 34 inches amounting to 2ji inches from A to [ and from J raise up 
to K with 1 inch. Draw a line from K against I to L and stiuare a line from L to meet li 
which will according to tliis action give the correct width of slioulder. Meastn-e from 
C to M on the waist line 2 inches and connect with a line up to A which will make the in- 
cline of the back and complete the entire back foundation. 



To continue with the front measure from I' to N and D to (), 1/6 of 34 inclics and draw 
a line from N to < ). Measure again 1/6 of 34 inches from O to P, P to R and P up to Q and 
connect a line from Q to T. Now measure the back shoulder from K to L and apply the same 
amount from Q to U and connect a line from U to N which will complete the front arm- 
hole line. When being as far as this measure half of bust measurement from T to V 
amounting to 18;/ inches according to 3i7 inches bust measurement and allow 3 inches for 
seams from V to W. Now square a line dow-n from W, X to Y. Add ],^ inch for a seam in 
front of R and up to S. Then draw a line from S against \V down to Z which completes this 
foundation to the edge of the front which is now ready for following up for any purpose for 
the \arious garments as shown for size 36 for the underwear line. For additional misses' sizes 
see talile of proportions. 



849 




T. ROSENFELD'S SYSTEM \^- 






850 




THE PRAOTICAU i^^ESIGlS'ER 





^/9 J,2o 



^/f-^/6 ^^^ - ^^5 



The number under each cut gives the lesson number. See lessons on th% 
various pages in this volume. 



3477-252 
lot. P 



1 •. •- '.• 



851 




THE PRACTICAL DESiaNER 




INDEX 
WOMEN'S AND MISSES' UNDERWEAR 



Va^v 



'I illc paK<-' ior \\ nincii's and Misses' L'iKlL-rwi.'ar /ii') 

I'n.l.U'in of L'n.U-rwcar ;9()-7';l 

I'roper Way of Taking Kisc Measurement 792 

I'roportional Mtasiirenients lor Women's aiul Misses' Underwear 7V.^ 

Woman's l''irst I-'oundation Lines 7y4-79.-> 

Woman's Second Konndatioi\ Lines 796-797 

Woman's Corset Lover 798-799 

Woman's Tight-l-itting Corset Cover 800-801 

Woman's Brassiere 802-803 

Woman's Camisole 804-805 

Woman's Chemise 8(16-80/ 

Woman's Envelope Chemise 808-809 

Woman's One-piece Xight Gown 810-81 1 

Woman's Xight Gown with Yoke 812-813 

Woman's Princess Slip 814-81.-> 

Woman's Bloomers or Knickerbockers. Front Part 816-817 

Woman's Bloomers or Knickerbockers. Back Part 816-817 

Woman's Drawers, EroiU Part 818-819 

Woman's Drawers, Back Part 818-819 

Woman's Pantaloon Pajamas, Front Part 820-821 

Woman's Pantaloon Pajamas. Back Part 820-821 

Woman's One-piece or Circular Drawers *''2 

Woman's Envelope Drawers ^-'^ 

Woman's One-piece I'ajamas, Kimono Style, I'roiit Part 824^82.i 

V\'oman's f )nc-piece Pajamas. Kimono Style. Back Part 826-827 

Woman's Combination Chemise. Rack Pari 828-829 

Woman's Combination Chemise. I'ront Part 828-829 

Woman's Step-in Chemise 830-831 

Woman's One-piece Step-in 830-831 

The Study of the Stont Form *'■'- 

Proportional Stout Measurements for Women 833 

Woman's Tight-fitting Drawers. I'ront Part 834-835 

Woman's Tight-fitting Drawers. Back Part 834-835 

Woman's Kimono Effect Foundation 836-837 

Woman's Pajama Blouse 8.18-839 

Woman's Standing Collar 



840 



Woman's Flat Collar 841 

Woman's One-piece Slee.ve on Top of .\rmhole 842-843 

Woman's Two-piece "or Four Gore Petticoat .^ 844-845 

Woman's Five Gore Petticoat V / 846-847 

Misses' Foundation Outline " ' 848-849 

Stvlo Illustrations ''•■'" 






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